In article <9506211027.ZM2238@godzilla.studio.sgi.com>,
"Chris Kantarjiev" <cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com> wrote:
> I always go by the rule of thumb that 10psi per 1000rpm is plenty.
Talking of the six pot, of which I have some experience:
I couldn't care less about idle pressure, as long as there *is* a
reasonable pressure. (The "disaster indicator" flashing is not a good
sign).
40psi at 2000 rpm is the stated limit, and an engine with such a
reading is definitely "fit for fight".
20psi at 2000 rpm is indicating a well worn engine. The crankshaft
is in a state where it definitely would require a regrind on a
rebuild. I am not in any way predicting that it immediate disaster will
occur, but one should be aware that the time when you hear
the distinctive "sound of the conrods" may not be too far away. On
the other hand, if driven with care (careful with use of WOT), the
engine may still last for a long time.
I have a theory that it is better to change big-end and crank
bearings when the pressure reached is approaching say 30psi at
2000 rpm. Changing them is really done in a jiffy, and I assume
that this will extend useful engine life significantly.
And again: Cold pressures should be much higher than the above, we are
talking hot pressures (after half an hour or so of reasonably quick
driving).
Egil
--
Email: egilk@oslonett.no Voice: +47 22523641/92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Smail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
Web: http://www.oslonett.no/home/egilk/
Web: http://www.oslonett.no/home/egilk/t2000.html
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