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TR3A -1961 long reply

To: Triumph owners list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: TR3A -1961 long reply
From: <RGS03%ALBNYDH2.bitnet@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU>
Date: Wed, 31 May 95 10:26:41 EDT
Comments: Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2X
George Oliver asked about a 1961 TR3A available for purchase.

First, welcome to the list, George.

You said the car has been awaiting restoration for 17 years. Is that
inside or outside in the elements? If it's been indoors you could have
a real find on your hands. If it was stored outdoors, it could be too late
to save it.

Body. The main areas prone to rust are the floors, inner and outer sills
or rocker panels in US parlance, (the inner sills are structural so be
careful there) the bottoms of the front fenders and along the bottom of the
rear apron (under the spare tire door). Check under the gas tank as well,
if you can gain access, and at the bottom of the "dogleg" behind and below
the doors. There's an aluminum stone guard there and covering the front of
the rear fender. Rust gathers there as well. Replacement panels are available
for all these areas but installing them requires some skill and paying for
installation is really hard on the checkbook.

Missing seats are not a real problem. TR seat shells are fairly common
(I may even have some extras) and re-upholstery materials are readily
available from TRF, MOSS or VB.

The frames under these cars are quite sturdy and rust through
is seldom a problem, although it has happened. Look for cracks around
the mounting points for the lower A arms and for accident damage (twists
or wrinkles).  The mechanicals are very robust. The engine is derived
from a Massey-Ferguson (I believe) tractor engine and is consequently
massive. You'd need about eight pounds of dynamite to hurt one. Or move it!
Synchros are known to fail in the transmission but generally the
mechanical aspects of these cars is the strongest point. The most likely
mechanical problem you may see is not damaged, but missing components.
Fortunately, most are available.

$400 sounds like a real project car. As a rule of thumb, I usually tell
people that a TR3 in drivable (not concours) shape is about $4 - 5,000.
If you buy a car for $400, plan on spending $4,600 to get it presentable
and drivable. Personally, I tend to look at $400 TR3's as parts cars.
Of course there is always the exception. It could be that you've found
a bargain. Please don't get the idea I'm trying to discourage you, I'm not.
It's just that you have to apply some common sense when looking at it.

If you have the time, money and space to take on a project, go for it.
If not, you may be better off looking for a running car and spending more
for it up front.

Whatever you decide, or if you need more ideas/advice/compassion
keep us informed. Good luck

Rik
'58 TR3A, '56 TR3, '77 Spitfire, '70 Spitfire, '64 Spitfire (and no $$$)

***************************************************************
Rik Schlierer                 "Weekends don't count unless you
RGS03@HEALTH.STATE.NY.US         spend them doing something
NYS DEPT OF HEALTH, ALBANY NY  completely pointless" (Calvin)

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