This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============0050275504433558575==
boundary="------------6FD037675A8D8B9C88031EC1"
Content-Language: en-US
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------6FD037675A8D8B9C88031EC1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
On 4/16/2019 6:58 AM, Richard Hyatt via Tigers wrote:
>
> HI,
>
> I wondered if any had converted their tiger to a dual circuit brake
> master cylinder. If so, which type and year worked well for you. Two
> issues seem to be plaguing my attempt to do this. I tried using a 1980
> Datsun 280z master cylinder, This uses a loose rod to actuate it
> meaning the brake deal must have a stop or a custom push rod and
> modification to the master cylinder to keep the rod in place when
> letting off the brake pedal. The second issue is that I had all custom
> brake lines made for my conversion to Wilwood disks all around but 2
> attempts to get correct flare/fitting combination at the new master
> cylinder have failed. Still have leaks. Not sure if the supplier has
> used proper flare and fitting despite the info I provided. Any
> thoughts on a better arrangement? Thanks.
>
> Rick
>
Dear Rick,
I make modified Brake Pedal Kits for Tigers that change the mechanical
pedal ratio from the factory 4.4:1 to 6:1. This is change is
approximately what the Girling vacuum booster system provides. I supply
dual master cylinders as part of the kits I supply. I have cylinders
from 13/16 bore up to 1" bore. Part of my kit is a retainer plate that
captures the custom actuation rod I supply, so that it minimizes the
free play and eliminates the possibility of the actuation rod falling
free of the master cylinder (not a good situation).
I have the Eastwood Forming Tool to make proper flares on the ends of
the brake tubing. I can also supply appropriate fittings (without flare
requirements) that allow splicing your custom brake tubing below the
master so that you can change just the stub going to the master. BTW
the Datsun cylinders require a 10 mm nut to complete the master
connection. If you are using the 3/8-24 OEM style connectors, that
could be part of your problem. I can supply you with stubs of
pre-flared tubing, the proper 10 mm nuts, and non flare fittings to
allow you to splice them into your existing tubing. If any of this
sounds like it will help you, call or email me and we can discuss this
privately.
--
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
5712 San Luis Court
Pleasanton, CA 94566
modtiger@comcast.net
(925)462-3876
www.tigerengineering.net
--------------6FD037675A8D8B9C88031EC1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
</head>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/16/2019 6:58 AM, Richard Hyatt via
Tigers wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:02f101d4f45c$79426530$6bc72f90$@atmospherebuilders.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
medium)">
<style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:#0563C1;
text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:#954F72;
text-decoration:underline;}
span.EmailStyle17
{mso-style-type:personal-compose;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
color:windowtext;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext="edit">
<o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]-->
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">HI,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I wondered if any had converted their tiger
to a dual circuit brake master cylinder. If so, which type and
year worked well for you. Two issues seem to be plaguing my
attempt to do this. I tried using a 1980 Datsun 280z master
cylinder, This uses a loose rod to actuate it meaning the
brake deal must have a stop or a custom push rod and
modification to the master cylinder to keep the rod in place
when letting off the brake pedal. The second issue is that I
had all custom brake lines made for my conversion to Wilwood
disks all around but 2 attempts to get correct flare/fitting
combination at the new master cylinder have failed. Still have
leaks. Not sure if the supplier has used proper flare and
fitting despite the info I provided. Any thoughts on a better
arrangement? Thanks.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Rick<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Dear Rick,</p>
<p>I make modified Brake Pedal Kits for Tigers that change the
mechanical pedal ratio from the factory 4.4:1 to 6:1. This is
change is approximately what the Girling vacuum booster system
provides. I supply dual master cylinders as part of the kits I
supply. I have cylinders from 13/16 bore up to 1" bore. Part of
my kit is a retainer plate that captures the custom actuation rod
I supply, so that it minimizes the free play and eliminates the
possibility of the actuation rod falling free of the master
cylinder (not a good situation). <br>
</p>
<p>I have the Eastwood Forming Tool to make proper flares on the
ends of the brake tubing. I can also supply appropriate fittings
(without flare requirements) that allow splicing your custom brake
tubing below the master so that you can change just the stub going
to the master. BTW the Datsun cylinders require a 10 mm nut to
complete the master connection. If you are using the 3/8-24 OEM
style connectors, that could be part of your problem. I can
supply you with stubs of pre-flared tubing, the proper 10 mm nuts,
and non flare fittings to allow you to splice them into your
existing tubing. If any of this sounds like it will help you,
call or email me and we can discuss this privately.<br>
</p>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
5712 San Luis Court
Pleasanton, CA 94566
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:modtiger@comcast.net";>modtiger@comcast.net</a>
(925)462-3876
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.tigerengineering.net";>www.tigerengineering.net</a> </pre>
</body>
</html>
--------------6FD037675A8D8B9C88031EC1--
--===============0050275504433558575==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
tigers@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net
--===============0050275504433558575==--
|