*** update***
SUCCESS! Thank you Tom Witt for the detailed description and Duke Samouce for
graphics and offers to help. I would up approaching it like Tom described and
it worked exactly as he said.
I sold the rear end (not the one in my car, this one came out of an old parts
car) and I just wanted to keep the gears and diff. So I really am not concerned
at this moment of putting it back together. Well, I cobbled together a nasty
slide hammer out of pieces of structural steel pipe and welded it to an old
steel wheel. 3 hard slides along a 3 foot pipe and those axles popped right
out. Built a quick case spreader out of angle iron and all thread and the diff
came right out.
Thanks everyone!!
Cullen
Alp260 1452
Yukon ok.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 18, 2015, at 9:48 AM, Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> Cullen,
> You won't find this in the Shop Notes, or likely recommended by anyone. But,
> given the rust issues your hubs MAY be as "frozen" as mine were. First I
> tried every hub puller I had access to and nearly pulled the car off the
> jackstands. So, I removed the axle/hub/backing plate as one piece. Even there
> the bearings were SO tight in the housing that I AGAIN nearly knocked the car
> off the jackstands removing them. Eventually they did release by fashioning a
> slide hammer that used two 10 pound weights (20 pounds total) and slamming
> them into a stop with a 3 foot run. It took about ten of these whacks to get
> the bearing/axle out of the housing.
>
> I then took a steel wheel and bolted it to the axle. I suspended the wheel
> between two tightly spaced sawhorses, reversed the nut and backed it off to
> the edge of the threads, and place a sacrificial steel plate over the nut.
> After applying penetrating oil and heat it took about 15-20 full force
> overhead swinging whacks from a 10 pound sledge hammer before the hub FINALLY
> released from the axle. The threads on the end on one axle weren't too pretty
> and I can't account for the wheel being straight, but surprisingly the
> sawhorses held up. One day at Salisbury their had to have a contest to force
> mis-matched tolerance parts together and that was the rear end that went into
> my car. I say this just in case you get desperate but are persistent.
>
> Ideally you have a puller that tightens to the hub at all four points and
> then and a center bolt that presses against the axle. Some people here have
> made their own. But, as I have mentioned getting the hub off the axle AND
> the axle/bear out of the housing are two different processes that offer
> restraint - often of a near overwhelming magnitude. 15 years ago when I
> posted this many people thought I was exaggerating. Well, I've done this
> before on other cars and NEVER had the near the difficulties I had with the
> Tiger's rear end. My hope for you is regardless of the rust that things go
> easier for you. Lastly be careful not to damage the steel shims associated
> with the retainer. Mark them as to what side they came off also as they set
> the axle end play.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Cullen McCann via Tigers
> Sent: Friday, April 17, 2015 6:46 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Axle removal process.
>
> Dearest technical support community of ever present knowledge and wisdom,
>
> I am desperate. I left my binder of shop notes at, well, my other
> shop. It would probably contain my answer, but they are out of reach
> at the moment. Before I tell you how far I have gotten unsuccessfully,
> and to what level of drama, I will beg for advice.
>
> Can somebody please outline the basic steps of removing the stock
> axles and differential from with in a factory Tiger rear end housing?
> I have never done it on a Tiger. Ultimately all I want to do is get
> the posi unit and gears out. Here is what I understand:
>
> The axles have to come out first. To get the axles out, the hubs have
> to come off, correct? I am familiar with the exploded diagrams showing
> the basic components of the Tiger axle shafts and hub assembly. The
> axle shaft is a tapered end and the hub is pressed-on, so after the
> retaining nut and washer is removed, removing the hub with a hub
> puller tool that applies force by pulling outward on the hub, and
> pushing inward on the end-dimple of the axle centerline should draw
> the hub off correct? Can the proposed hub puller tool anchor to the
> lug studs?
>
> This rear end came out of MK1a that had rust issues. But has a nice
> posi unit and set of 3.31's. I really want it out...
>
> please be gentle and thank you for your help.
>
> Cullen
> Alpine 260 '1452
> Yukon
>
>
>
>
>
>
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