Cullen,
You won't find this in the Shop Notes, or likely recommended by anyone.
But, given the rust issues your hubs MAY be as "frozen" as mine were. First
I tried every hub puller I had access to and nearly pulled the car off the
jackstands. So, I removed the axle/hub/backing plate as one piece. Even
there the bearings were SO tight in the housing that I AGAIN nearly knocked
the car off the jackstands removing them. Eventually they did release by
fashioning a slide hammer that used two 10 pound weights (20 pounds total)
and slamming them into a stop with a 3 foot run. It took about ten of these
whacks to get the bearing/axle out of the housing.
I then took a steel wheel and bolted it to the axle. I suspended the wheel
between two tightly spaced sawhorses, reversed the nut and backed it off to
the edge of the threads, and place a sacrificial steel plate over the nut.
After applying penetrating oil and heat it took about 15-20 full force
overhead swinging whacks from a 10 pound sledge hammer before the hub
FINALLY released from the axle. The threads on the end on one axle weren't
too pretty and I can't account for the wheel being straight, but
surprisingly the sawhorses held up. One day at Salisbury their had to have
a contest to force mis-matched tolerance parts together and that was the
rear end that went into my car. I say this just in case you get desperate
but are persistent.
Ideally you have a puller that tightens to the hub at all four points and
then and a center bolt that presses against the axle. Some people here have
made their own. But, as I have mentioned getting the hub off the axle AND
the axle/bear out of the housing are two different processes that offer
restraint - often of a near overwhelming magnitude. 15 years ago when I
posted this many people thought I was exaggerating. Well, I've done this
before on other cars and NEVER had the near the difficulties I had with the
Tiger's rear end. My hope for you is regardless of the rust that things go
easier for you. Lastly be careful not to damage the steel shims associated
with the retainer. Mark them as to what side they came off also as they set
the axle end play.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cullen McCann via Tigers
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2015 6:46 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Axle removal process.
Dearest technical support community of ever present knowledge and wisdom,
I am desperate. I left my binder of shop notes at, well, my other
shop. It would probably contain my answer, but they are out of reach
at the moment. Before I tell you how far I have gotten unsuccessfully,
and to what level of drama, I will beg for advice.
Can somebody please outline the basic steps of removing the stock
axles and differential from with in a factory Tiger rear end housing?
I have never done it on a Tiger. Ultimately all I want to do is get
the posi unit and gears out. Here is what I understand:
The axles have to come out first. To get the axles out, the hubs have
to come off, correct? I am familiar with the exploded diagrams showing
the basic components of the Tiger axle shafts and hub assembly. The
axle shaft is a tapered end and the hub is pressed-on, so after the
retaining nut and washer is removed, removing the hub with a hub
puller tool that applies force by pulling outward on the hub, and
pushing inward on the end-dimple of the axle centerline should draw
the hub off correct? Can the proposed hub puller tool anchor to the
lug studs?
This rear end came out of MK1a that had rust issues. But has a nice
posi unit and set of 3.31's. I really want it out...
please be gentle and thank you for your help.
Cullen
Alpine 260 '1452
Yukon
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