Hi Owain,
I Googled 'integrated alternator regulator' and then did an image
search, looking for parts where the heat sink and mounting hole patterns
were similar. I then realized that your part had been modified to remove
the OEM external connector.
If you can get a very close fit between your regulator and the external
case, and use heat sink compound to further improve the heat transfer,
as well as the pulley and shield mods, you should be in good shape.
Theo
On 12/8/2013 1:01 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> Theo! Fantastic! Many thanks. How did you find that denso part?
>
> The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined
> alloy. If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the
> case it should be a good heatsink. With a larger pulley and a shield
> over the alternator to keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have,
> I might just get away with it.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Owain
>
> On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca
>
> Hi Owain,
> I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
>
>
> I found your regulator here:
> http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
> It says
> Black D-
> Yellow D+
> White B+
> Case DF
> Red B+
> Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
>
> This article
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
> has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator
> wiring as well as instructions on the last page that reference the
> color codes on the new regulator.
>
> It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
> stock-looking generator case, right?
> The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
> http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
> except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut
> off and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the
> brush terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator'
> terminal was wired to your custom installation.
>
> The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of
> the alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the
> original Denso part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so
> those fins are in the external air flow. If you're rebuilding
> this, I would try to get it so that your regulator was mounted to
> a heat sink with external fins or at least to something that has a
> good thermal connection to the external case. Otherwise the
> regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
>
> This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired
> to the car's electrical system.
> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
>
> Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire
> replacement guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on
> your bench, might be enough to get it going again.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>
> On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the
> list may
> have the expertise to help with. I have an alternator that
> the internal
> regulator has failed on. Replacing the whole alternator is
> not such an
> easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason
> to believe the
> regulator would not fail again.
>
> The regulator used inside has 4 wires. One to the live wire,
> one to the
> charge light and two to the diode bridge. I happen to have a
> four wire
> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement
> but I don't
> really know how it should be wired up. The link below shows a
> pic of the
> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring
> in the
> alternator.
>
> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if
> possible) I could
> use the replacement?
>
> Many thanks indeed.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
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