Jay,
Had a similar problem and to make a long story short, I had significant
corrosion of the stranded battery ground cable where it joins the battery
lug connector. With no load it would pass voltage with no problem, but try
to start the engine and the current would cause the connection to go to
hell. Took me a week of playing with a multimeter to figure it out.
Keep on Tigering!
Jim Sencindiver
B382100451/TAC 448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp
On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:06 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you everyone. I will try some of the various suggestions this
> weekend.
>
> I've been kind of hoping it is not the solenoid since changing it looks
> like such an amazing pain with the servo in the way. I've often
> accomplished some very difficult part replacements where I really had to
> squirm and hold wrenches at all sorts of impossible angles. This one looks
> like it just might be too difficult. And I'm not even sure just unbolting
> the servo bracket gets me enough flexibility.
>
> I still don't understand how if I have very little drop in voltage from the
> battery though the fuse block, and through the ignition switch to the
> solenoid start wire (.08V, i.e., 12.48 down to 12.4) that it is a
> connection issue. I also still don't understand how if the battery is old
> with low amp power, why it works when I take the power to the solenoid
> start wire straight from the battery. And, I don't understand how it could
> be a bad solenoid when it works fine when I power the solenoid start wire
> directly. But, tests are cheap and I'm happy to do them!
>
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
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