Jay,
I recommend this only because I had a similar issue with a different make
car. If I jumper-ed the solenoid at the starter (Chevy engine in this case)
it cranked fine. I measured the voltage from the ignition switch to the
solenoid (disconnected) and it was fine. But connect the wire and I got the
click, click click. Frustrated (after try too many things - including
cleaning the switch like you did) I finally just ran a jumper wire bypassing
the harness wire from the switch to the solenoid. My problem went away and
never returned.
You can at least try the jumper wire throughout the circuit to find your
problem. 10 feet of wire and shielded alligator clips on the ends should do
it. While I'm sure you would like to retain the stock look of a factory
harness that will be secondary to getting the car to start (regularly).
Lastly, regarding the ballast resistor; the coil power flows through it
under normal driving. At the point of starting (solenoid engaged) the
resistor is bypassed and the coil gets a full 12 volts.
At the solenoid there are two large lugs. One is power from the battery.
The other passed the power through to the starter when the solenoid is
engaged. There are also two small lugs at the solenoid. One provides power
(from the ignition switch) to pull the plunger to connect the 12v power
between the two large lugs. The second, smaller, lug "taps" off the starter
side of the solenoid to momentarily send the 12v to the coil. As soon as
the start position on the key is released the power to the starter
disconnects as well as the momentary 12v that went to the coil. At that
point the coil power is coming through the resistor.
Tom
> On my Tiger, I'm having a starting problem. The new ignition switch did
> not
> fix it.
>
> Here are the symptoms: I turn the key one click, the car gets power, the
> red
> charging light goes on. I turn one more to power the starter, I get a
> click
> and the power shuts down. I turn off the key, turn it one click again,
> but
> this time no power. The charging light does not go on.
>
> When this first happened, the electrical, including the red charging
> light,
> would work after a few moments. Now it does not go back on until I give
> 12V
> straight to the starter switch.
>
> That is, I hooked up jumper cables to the + on the battery, and put it
> directly to the post on the starter solenoid that comes from the ignition
> switch. The starter cranks immediately. Then the electrical system is
> working right again.
>
> Here are some more details: Measuring voltage, I have very little drop
> between
> the battery post, to the fuse box, through the ignition switch and to the
> stater solenoid. 12.48 at the battery, 12.40 at the starter solenoid
> switch
> wire.
>
> But, after I try to start the car and the system shuts down, it is about
> 11.5
> all around (except the battery).
>
> The odd thing is that this doesn't happen until I turn the ignition switch
> to
> the starter position. I can turn it from off, to run, or to accessory
> over
> and over and all is fine. It's only when I go to the starter position
> that it
> clicks and shuts down. Is there something other than the starter solenoid
> that gets power at that time and might be bad?
>
> I just looked at the wiring diagram. The only other thing that comes into
> play seems to be the ignition resistor. Could it fail in a way that
> causes
> this? If so, is this a common part I can get at a local auto parts shop?
> Is
> there some way to test it?
>
> Thanks,
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