Gary
Seeing the pictures; I would make sure that your primary wire (copper band
going to the points), even though it has a sheathing on it is not touching
the side of the dist. make sure there is a gap. As for the felt wicks, I
haven't see points that had the wick right at the rubbing block, but maybe
Mallory had a better idea. This is just an ongoing attempt to find the
problem.
A friend of mine with a 68 Mustang (with Mallory dist.) had a problem where
the car would start just fine, but just above idle it would start to
misfire, but when the RPM was raised higher it seem to run just fine. After
I tore the carb. down THREE times I was convinced that it was not the carb.
(which he seemed to think was the problem). I decided to check the timing,
as soon as I put the timing light on I could see the timing was missing (no
flash) along with the miss of the engine. So now I knew that it was the
ignition that was the problem, I decided to start with the coil, he had one
of those big yellow Accel Super Coils, I changed the coil, engine ran fine.
Again, I don't think that these things are your problem, but it helps to
eliminate anything possible.
The specs you gave are interesting to me. When you said "15 degrees
advance" is that distributor degrees or crankshaft degrees? And what do you
mean exactly by "10 degrees retard"? This distributor (that I can tell)
isn't one of the type that had the vacuum retard function that was popular
with emission type distributors in the late 70s (and is worthless on
Tigers). I would think if you can move the rotor back 10 degrees (that's 20
degrees on the crankshaft) from the stopped or idle position, that would
indicate to me that the distributor is the culprit. Take the point plate
off and inspect the fly weights and their movements. You should be able to
move the rotor ONLY to the left (advance) against the springs from idle or
stopped position, if you can in fact move it to the right (clockwise) then a
weldment of some sort has come loose or broken. You should not be able to
move the rotor any further than the limits of the flyweights. I've only
recurved one Mallory distributor (the case above) so I'm not that familiar
with the inside as I am with the Ford dist. They both have the same
principle of flyweights, but just a little different.
Keep us posted, this is fascinating!
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Pointer
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 9:19 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Timing deviates - advice needed
Once again, thanks all, for your responses.
Per Mayf's suggestion, relaying here a few details:
Model: Mallory Dual Point YC-449-HP
Motor: 302 CID. Year unknown. Stock internals.
Other: Moves smoothly to about 15 degrees advance, and 10 degrees retard. No
stickiness.
New points, rotor, coil, wires about 2500 miles ago.
A couple folks asked for pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tigerv8
The suggestion was made of installing a substitute, to prove/disprove
distributor issue. No many cats in these parts though (St. Albert, Alberta,
Canada).
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