I thought I should report the solution to the List. I figured out what was
going on. I got my wife to press the clutch pedal and it turns out that one
of the bolts holding the slave in place only looked tight. In reality, the
slave cylinder flexed toward the engine when the pedal was pressed. I
tightened that bolt and the problem was resolved. I also readjusted the
shifter just in case. I finally got to drive the car today for the first
time with the new setup. What a difference. It feels like a new car. So
happy... Thanks a lot. M
On 7/30/10 6:20 PM, "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yup!
>
> For the group: With the original push rod installed in a new slave cylinder
> and bolted to the bell housing mount, there is some movement of the push
rod
> into the slave cylinder (that is, the piston is not bottomed in the
cylinder).
> I'd guess about 1/4", but that's a guess. I suspect it has to be there so
the
> throwout bearing isn't forced on to the clutch fingers by the slave
cylinder.
> I can attest that a sticking slave or master cylinder can eat up a clutch.
> Been there.
>
> Thanks to all; if it hadn't been mentioned I'd be right there with a
> transmission that wouldn't shift with the engine running. A lot easier to
fix
> with cold headers.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 5:55 PM, <CoolVT@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> The first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the
rod
>>
>> I think that's assuming you haven't changed any clutch parts, bellhousing
or
>> the clutch fork. To my thinking, one way or another you have to have the
>> proper clearance between the end of the rod and the fork to begin with.
>> M
>>>
>>>
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