Yup!
For the group: With the original push rod installed in a new slave cylinder
and bolted to the bell housing mount, there is some movement of the push rod
into the slave cylinder (that is, the piston is not bottomed in the
cylinder). I'd guess about 1/4", but that's a guess. I suspect it has to be
there so the throwout bearing isn't forced on to the clutch fingers by the
slave cylinder. I can attest that a sticking slave or master cylinder can
eat up a clutch. Been there.
Thanks to all; if it hadn't been mentioned I'd be right there with a
transmission that wouldn't shift with the engine running. A lot easier to
fix with cold headers.
Tom
On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 5:55 PM, <CoolVT@aol.com> wrote:
> **
>
>
> The first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the rod
>
> **
> *I think that's assuming you haven't changed any clutch parts, bellhousing
> or the clutch fork. To my thinking, one way or another you have to have
> the proper clearance between the end of the rod and the fork to begin with.
> M*
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