Steve's advise is very good. But you need to learn more about Tiger by
reading, and then come back to the list to ask a more learned question,
otherwise, it's too open ended to focus on what you really want and can
afford.
Larry
Steve Laifman wrote:
> Jondecmag@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Steve: I'm looking to purchase a Tiger. Really don't know much
> about cars and mechanical, but the Tiger always one of my favorites.
> Could you please tell me about how much these cars sell for and where
> is the best place to purchase one. Thank you, John Caruso
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> John,
>
> I have sent this message on to the Tiger List, which I hope you have
> joined, as the experts read the messages - and may offer more, or even
> different, opinions than mine. The more sides you hear, the more
> educated you can become.
>
> I have no idea what your budget, or needs are. You can buy a replica
> of a Tiger, made from a $300 and up Alpine, which is NOT a Tiger. You
> can buy the same car sold as if it were a Tiger, which is fraud and
> illegal, for $10,000 - $30,000, depending upon what kind of wool they
> pull over your eyes.
>
> Tiger basket cases start a about $6,000, and a good restoration with
> original equipment might run you $30,000.
>
> My best recommendation is to decide if you really want a Tiger, or
> just something that looks like it might be. Then you have to decide
> how sound the vehicle is. Eastern cars are almost always shot through
> with rust, and have either been patched, "Bondoed", or had Alpine
> pieces welded on. Do not misinterpret this comment, as there ARE good
> cars back east, but they are few, and far between, and cost what they
> are worth. The majority of the imports to the US, however, went to
> California, and the weather is benign - at least to the south and away
> from the ocean. You must also decide if you want the original
> transmission/engine, a tuned, stroked, cammed, hot rod engine, or even
> a 5.0 liter new block with hot equipment or even fuel injection.
> Depends on your reason for buying the car.
>
> My BEST recommendation is to ONLY buy a car that was first sold in
> California, and has spent a pampered life here. Except in limited
> areas, rust is not a cancerous issue. I would insist on the car
> either having a TAC certificate, or getting one as a condition of
> sale. This will NOT validate it's condition, only that it is really a
> Tiger. I would have a knowledgeable mechanic check the whole thing
> out. There are a number of them in Northern and Southern California.
> If you want a quick $100 walk around, you can go anywhere, and get
> what you paid for.
>
> The car, if it has a history as a winning race car, or the rare Shelby
> or Miles prototypes are going to cost, and there is ONLY 1 of each.
> There is ONE real Harrington Tiger coupe. 2 of these cars are/were
> recently offered - but the Shelby is in his museum.
>
> There are minor differences between the Mk I and Mk IA, which could be
> important to you. The Mark II, last production version, was made in a
> very limited 500 car run, and is probably the best the factory rolled
> out. Expect to pay more for this 289 stock version.
>
> It is easier to find and appraise a diamond to your specifications,
> than a Tiger - as there are so many more of them - and the criteria
> have long been set for grading.
>
> A lot of cars on eBay are forgeries, as are many at even the larger
> auction houses. Let the Buyer Beware, the thieves are thick where
> the money flies.
>
> Good luck, and read some of the books currently available on the Tiger
> history. Watch the Tiger Mail List, read TigersUnited.com, and don't
> walk under ladders.
>
> Steve
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