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Re: Personal eMail

To: Jondecmag@aol.com
Subject: Re: Personal eMail
From: Steve Laifman <SLaifman@socal.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2005 10:48:17 -0700
Jondecmag@aol.com wrote:

Hello Steve: I'm looking to purchase a Tiger. Really don't know much about  
cars and mechanical, but the Tiger always one of my favorites. Could you please 
 tell me about how much these cars sell for and where is the best place to  
purchase one. Thank you, John Caruso


------------------------------------------------------------------------

John,

I have sent this message on to the Tiger List, which I hope you have 
joined, as the experts read the messages - and may offer more, or even 
different, opinions than mine.  The more sides you hear, the more 
educated you can become.

I have no idea what your budget, or needs are.  You can buy a replica of 
a Tiger, made from a $300 and up Alpine, which is NOT a Tiger.  You can 
buy the same car sold as if it were a Tiger, which is fraud and illegal, 
for $10,000 - $30,000, depending upon what kind of wool they pull over 
your eyes.

Tiger basket cases start a about $6,000, and a good restoration with 
original equipment might run you $30,000.

My best recommendation is to decide if you really want a Tiger, or just 
something that looks like it might be.  Then you have to decide how 
sound the vehicle is.  Eastern cars are almost always shot through with 
rust, and have either been patched, "Bondoed",  or had Alpine pieces 
welded on.  Do not misinterpret this comment, as there ARE good cars 
back east, but they are few, and far between, and cost what they are 
worth.  The majority of the imports to the US, however, went to 
California, and the weather is benign - at least to the south and away 
from the ocean. You must also decide if you want the original 
transmission/engine, a tuned, stroked, cammed, hot rod engine, or even a 
5.0 liter new block with hot equipment or even fuel injection.  Depends 
on your reason for buying the car.

My BEST recommendation is to ONLY buy a car that was first sold in 
California, and has spent a pampered life here.  Except in limited 
areas, rust is not a cancerous issue.  I would insist on the car either 
having a TAC certificate, or getting one as a condition of sale.  This 
will NOT validate it's condition, only that it is really a Tiger.  I 
would have a knowledgeable mechanic check the whole thing out.  There 
are a number of them in Northern and Southern California.  If you want a 
quick $100 walk around, you can go anywhere, and get what you paid for.

The car, if it has a history as a winning race car, or the rare Shelby 
or Miles prototypes are going to cost, and there is ONLY 1 of each.  
There is ONE real Harrington Tiger coupe.   2 of these cars are/were 
recently offered - but the Shelby is in his museum.

There are minor differences between the Mk I and Mk IA, which could be 
important to you.  The Mark II, last production version, was made in a 
very limited 500 car run, and is probably the best the factory rolled 
out.  Expect to pay more for this 289 stock version.

It is easier to find and appraise a diamond to your specifications, than 
a Tiger - as there are so many more of them - and the criteria have long 
been set for grading.

A lot of cars on eBay are forgeries, as are many at even the larger 
auction houses.   Let the Buyer Beware, the thieves are thick where the 
money flies.

Good luck, and read some of the books currently available on the Tiger 
history.  Watch the Tiger Mail List, read TigersUnited.com, and don't 
walk under ladders.

Steve

-- 
___
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com





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