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Rear hub/axle removal

To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear hub/axle removal
From: VegasLegal@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 19:00:29 -0400
Since I've found this list,I have very much enjoyed reading all the trials and 
tribulations.  Now for one of mine.

I've got a couple of spinning lug bolts on the back.  A temporary fix with JB 
Weld seems to be holding up, but getting some new ones in would give me much 
better peace of mind.

In trying it myself (which is my preferred method), the slide hammer was to no 
avail.  The pin puller didn't work.  And kicking the h' out of the thing just 
hurt my foot.  Therefore, I'm going to be having a shop do it.

What should I look for in a shop?  (I.e., who would be most familiar with the 
dated Dana 44)

What should I expect this to cost?

Am I an idiot and missing an easy way to do this?

Is there anything else I should have done once they invade the car to this 
degree.

Next question.  In installing Rick's side moldings, does the free floating 
spreader pin stays with the clips, right?

P.S. to the stalling problems I've been reading about.  The info regarding the 
fuel line corruption should be shouted to the hills.  When I took my car out of 
fifteen years of storage, the same type of problem arose after I had boiled the 
tanks and blown out the lines.  After rebuilding the carb, replacing the carb, 
putting in a composite carb spacer from Rick, changing, cleaning or checking 
functionally every electrical connection and part in the car, driving Curt 
crazy, insulating the fuel line (suspected vapor lock) and on the eve of buying 
a new distributor, I went back and reamed (instead of blowing out) the fuel 
lines.  Low and behold, the problem was some crud that would pack and cause the 
stall, then float back as the car cooled.  This should be a first look not a 
last look.

Thanks all for being there.

Bob Nersesian

B382000975

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