I have not worked down the list to see if you got a reply, but here is what I
found on two cars.
The booster can stick. Inside the drum is a piston with a leather seal and a
return spring. When you step on the brake a vacumm is applied to move the
piston to put more pressure on the hydraulics. Releasing the brake opens this
up to atmospheric and the piston is returned by the spring. Every once and a
while mine woulds stick and not return. I bopped it whith anything handy, but
had to carry a soft faced hammer for a while while I tweaked it. I honed the
ID, lubed it with silicone grease, sliced the round (cross section) of the
packing that went behind the leather seal to a half round to reduce the
pressure on the seal, and eventually removed it.
The other thing I saw on my Bugeye was collapsed rubber brake hoses. The PO
had problems on a long drive with the pedal creeping up. The hoses were acting
like a check valve. It sounds more like the first problem though because you
would need to rlease the fluid at the wheel to get by this one.
Bob Melusky
"Dan & Lori Fitzgerald" <danlorifitz@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Listers,
>
>Well I'm finally nearing the completion of my 3 year restoration of my Tiger
>and have come up with a problem. After bleeding the brakes and making sure
>all the electrical is working I decided to take the car up and down the
>street to see how thing go. Well after a few laps up and down the street
>the brakes pumped up by them selves and remained on. I was barely able to
>get it back into the garage. After letting it sit for about an hour the
>brakes started easing up, but I finally had to loosen one of the brake lines
>at the booster to free up the system so that I could push the car on the
>rack. The booster was rebuilt about two years ago and left inside until I
>installed it a few days ago. Do I need to rebuild the booster again or is
>it something else??
>
>Dan
>B9470033
>
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