Gary, you guys are the EE, Sparky experts, they just give us CE's a
hammer, and tell us to go at it.
The hook up is charging wire from alternator to solenoid/battery
connection, and the one wire to red warning light and then to #2 on
ignition switch.
It works. I also use a volt meter.
I still can't figure out how the wiring diagram on the flash to pass
circuitry that Theo did for me. Something is not right there but it
works.
Larry
PS - I felt good and that my EE days were over when the Heath Kit stereo
worked.
garywinblad@attbi.com wrote:
>Larry,
>You mean to tell us that you have a 1 wire alternator
>and your warning light works? What kind of fuse
>box/relay setup is that?
>With only 1 wire there is NOTHING to run the light.
>Someone elses idea to leave the old generator regulator
>and have that run the light is interesting.. I hadn't
>even thought of that.. of course I ripped it out of
>there...
>My solution was to build a little 2 transistor circuit
>to activate the light if the voltage dropped below a
>certain (adjustable) level. It worked until it burned
>out! Tom and Roby: does yours still work?? Tom, maybe
>we could make a circuit board for that circuit too!
>The easy solution is to just put a Voltage gauge in the
>ammeter hole in the dash.. and remember to look at it
>once in a while..
>My chromed one wire came from Summit.
>Gary
>
>
>>I have the one wire hook up as well, and just did a way with the
>>regulator all together, didn't need it since I rewired new 10 ATO fuse
>>box, and 4 relays into wiring harness, and the alternator has internal
>>regulator.
>>
>>With ignition on, engine not running, light on, engine running light
>>off, if idle is lowered and alternator not charging enough, light comes on.
>>
>>This is GM 1 wire from JCWhitney, 60 amps, chrome, and cost $70, no core
>>charge.
>>
>>Larry
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