----- Original Message -----
From: "Harlowe, Graham T" <HarloweGT@navair.navy.mil>
To: "Tigers (E-mail)" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 6:09 AM
Subject: Valve Cover Rehab, etc.
> Experts Afield -
>
> A few questions -
>
> 1) My new-to-me Mk 1A Tiger project has evidence of a Ford-blue repaint
on
> the engine block. What are the tell-tale signs of original block/stock
> intake/stock carb?
Stock intake is a Ford 2 barrel unit
Stock carb is an Autolite 2100 2 barrel carb.
Thru the casting number on the block, you can verify that you have a 260 but
I don't think you can prove that it is the original block.
>
> 2) My original non-LAT chrome valve covers (with matching engine #s) are
in
> pretty sad shape with corrosion and pitting. What's the popular process
to
> "restore" these? Can they be stripped and rechromed while preserving the
> engine data plate or do I start shopping for some LAT replacements?
>
Any Mustang supply house will have original style valve covers.
For ex. California Mustang sells reproduction chrome valve covers for $89 a
pair. They are identical to original. 800 775-0101
Sunbeam Specialties sells reprodution Engine decals. I don't know how you
go about putting your info on them. I'll bet Tom Hall can help out in this
area.
Perhaps you can remove the decals and place them on the new valve covers.
I looked at a car where the chrome was immaculate and the labels were old an
worn looking. I think it can be done.
> 3) Is there a "known source" for those handy knurled nuts that hold the
> ground wire to the instruments or do most people just replace them with
hex
> nuts?
Call Smitty at (619) 233-7937
He has a treasure trove of Sunbeam parts.
I bought a complete clutch pedal assy from him for $10.
There is a guy on ebay trying to sell one with a min bid of $35
Erich
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