I just feel way more comfortable using the scissors jack for emergencies
on the road. My original Tiger jack is for show.
I concur with Steve & others on chocking a wheel before you jack, and
please, always use a stand before putting ANY part of your body under a
raised car! (unless you like to play "auto" roulette...;-)
Ken
Steve Laifman wrote:
>
> More Jack info.
>
> As I think it over, the major reason for a twist failure of a factory,
> or scissors jack, is the non observance of using a wheel chock, as
> described in every jack instruction set.
>
> As the car is raised, it tends to push the car back from the jacking point.
>
> On a side jack, this is resisted by the two opposite tires, but it is
> still possible for an uneven surface to cause fore/aft movement. The
> emergency brake, or a wedge block will resist this motion. This is true
> of scissors of plug-in jacks.
>
> Maybe most of the failures reported were from the lack of jacking on a
> flat surface, and not using wheel chocks or emergency brakes.
>
> Call the Auto Club is still the favored alternative. Following
> manufacturer's directions is imperative.
>
> I find no rationale for any advantage of a scissors jack over the
> factory plug in, unless there is a great deal of rust in the chassis.
> Those square jacking tubes are securely and thoroughly welded to the
> main chassis members, not just tacked on, and the jack is well built.
>
> Just an additional thought about car raising. Also, a jack stand is
> absolutely required if any part of your body is going under any part of
> the car, including the raised tire of fender well with the tire removed.
> --
> Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
> B9472289 < important in your life >
> < and don't let it get away!>
> <SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com>
> <http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp>
>
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--
Ken Tisdale
ph: 303-421-2336
fx: 303-432-8967
ktisdale@ix.netcom.com
www.netcom.com/~ktisdale
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