More Jack info.
As I think it over, the major reason for a twist failure of a factory,
or scissors jack, is the non observance of using a wheel chock, as
described in every jack instruction set.
As the car is raised, it tends to push the car back from the jacking point.
On a side jack, this is resisted by the two opposite tires, but it is
still possible for an uneven surface to cause fore/aft movement. The
emergency brake, or a wedge block will resist this motion. This is true
of scissors of plug-in jacks.
Maybe most of the failures reported were from the lack of jacking on a
flat surface, and not using wheel chocks or emergency brakes.
Call the Auto Club is still the favored alternative. Following
manufacturer's directions is imperative.
I find no rationale for any advantage of a scissors jack over the
factory plug in, unless there is a great deal of rust in the chassis.
Those square jacking tubes are securely and thoroughly welded to the
main chassis members, not just tacked on, and the jack is well built.
Just an additional thought about car raising. Also, a jack stand is
absolutely required if any part of your body is going under any part of
the car, including the raised tire of fender well with the tire removed.
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
<SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com>
<http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp>
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