Mark, et al:
When I installed the pusher fan in my car (since removed,) I installed the
combination of a manual switch and the thermostatic switch. This worked
just fine. Make sure you also have it fused as Jim suggested and the higher
end units also come with a relay, which should be used. Jim is also dead-on
concerning his hot wire location at the solenoid as long as you have it
fused in-line....most of these fans (Hayden especially,) come equipped with
an in-line fuse.
BTW, the reason I removed the electric fan in my beast is that I got the
"cooling" problems under control with the investment of some time and
materials, which all told cost me about $250.00. (Note that I paid over $100
for the Hayden fan that now sits on the shelf.) Simply, a Ford six-blade
"Canadian" fan trimmed to fit the rack (Jc has also recommended a similar
fan from Volvo that is plastic and bolts right on with no modification,)
updated four-row Modine "H" radiator core and a stock Tiger fan shroud.
Frankly, I am pleased with this set-up, as the car stays quite cool, even
when idling for a time. This is fairly impressive because when I first went
after this problem several years ago, many doubted I would be able to get
the car to run cooler as it is the original 260, bored 30 over.
(I know Steve, I know.....I need to get to my editing!)
Regards,
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of TIGEROOTES@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 10:32 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Electric Fan Wiring
Mark,
I recommend you connect it (fused) directly to the starter solenoid
where
the battery cable attaches: this allows it to be able continue cycling (if
necessary) after you have driven your car. The thermostat will shut it down
when the cooling is done. This is exactly how Subaru, Audi and most others
wire them, and it would be completely isolated from your Lucas wiring
harness. Works for me.
Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle
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