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Listers,
I'm a big fan of powder coating. I've had people do things for me, and have also
used the Eastwood Co. Hot Coat system (http://www.eastwoodcompany.com). I must
admit a certain amount of skepticism when I first purchased the Eastwood system,
but it works amazingly well. Last summer, when I restored my front suspension, I
powder coated every part myself with the exception of the main crossmember and
sway bar. They were too large to fit in the oven I use for curing the powder.
I'll bet I used less than 10 oz. of powder for everything that I coated. The
system is clean, quiet, relatively inexpensive, extremely durable, and
environmentally friendly. Another big plus; you clean everything with compressed
air!
In regards to powder coating the top bows, just mask off the areas that rotate
against each other. Eastwood sells some expensive heat resistant masking tape,
but you can use any type as long as you peel it off before the part goes in the
oven.
The system is $150 and requires a compressor (10 psi) and an electric oven or
Eastwood's incredibly expensive ($450), infrared system. The nice thing about
the infrared system is that you can do large parts. I'd sure like to find a less
costly alternative myself.
Regards,
Joe Parlanti
B382002371
"Ronak, TP (Timothy)" wrote:
> Listers,
> I am on the road again and sitting in my Hotel late at night when a Tiger
> owners mind starts to wander.....specifically, I am thinking of powder
> coating the convertible top bows and I am wondering if anyone else has tried
> it and if there is any negatives to doing it. I am wondering if the build up
> will hinder the operation of the arms or if painting is the clear way to go.
> I am in the process right now of redoing my top in preparation for a move to
> sunnier climes, and wonder if anyone has any tips or tricks to do the new
> roof job once.
> I am short some parts and wonder if anyone has any?
>
> The parts needed are
> The springs that work the hinging arm for the roof front header for both
> sides
> The right side pin and clip that the front header Hinge arm pivots on
> New stretchy stuff that secures the bows to each other
> A shinier chrome arm
>
> Through all of this I have an extra roof header tie bar and misc. bits that
> I could donate to others or trade. I also found another Alpine console if
> anyone is needing one. You would need the ashtray.
>
> Thanks again to Jeff Howarth across the "pond" for the GT top blocks which I
> traded for some better Hinge arms.
>
> I spent about 6 hours Sunday with a torch and Vise and assorted hammers and
> dollies to repair my hinges and I think that I have made good progress. I
> had to leave before I could test fit the roof frame to see if it fits well
> to the side glass. If any of you have tried to do this I have a lot of
> respect for what you had to go through. The hardest thing was determining
> what the "correct" twisty shape is supposed to be. I guessed and will soon
> know how well I did when I try the roof again. Does any one have a scale
> drawing or tracing that can be used as a "pattern"??? It took a lot of work
> to get the hinges apart and if anyone else needs some help I may be able to
> if mine line up although I would prefer a pattern from an untwisted set.
> Once everything lines up satisfactorily I plan to disassemble it all and
> either powder-coat or paint depending on feedback.
>
> Best regards to all,
> Tim Ronak
> B382000680
--
Joseph V. Parlanti
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