Theo,
Is there a FAQ on this subject? I am currently torqueing (sp?) my lugs to
~70 ft lbs. Any recomendations on passes, leading to final torque,
tightening pattern etc.? Of all the mechanical failures, wheels falling off
are one of the ugliest 8^).
Bill
>From: Theo Smit <TSmit@novatel.ca>
>Reply-To: Theo Smit <TSmit@novatel.ca>
>To: tigers@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: brake solutions/wheel spacers
>Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 16:50:53 -0600
>
>Mike, Bill, and Listers,
>
>If you're using spacers, then you have to make sure that there is enough
>thread
>engagement on the studs. How much is "enough"? If you capture a diameter's
>worth
>of thread that's probably enough, so long as the nuts you're using are made
>of a
>decent material. This caveat applies specifically to 'shank lugnuts' where
>the
>small diameter cylindrical part that fits into the wheel actually takes a
>lot of
>the load. They make 'long shank' lugnuts for use with spacers, where the
>shank
>extends into the spacer's stud holes. This ensures that there is enough
>thread
>engagement, and also serves to locate the spacer.
>
>Since the LAT-70 wheels (and I'm sure a lot of others, too) don't center on
>the
>hubs, but use the studs and lugs for centering, it is very important to
>center
>the wheel on the studs before tightening the lug nuts down. The method I
>use is
>to get four acorn lug nuts, and snug the wheel up by alternately tightening
> up
>the acorn nuts. When the acorn nuts are snug (let's say 10 lb-ft), they
>will
>have centered the wheel on the four studs. Then remove two acorn nuts,
>replace
>with the shank nuts, and tighten these to spec. Then do the remaining two
>studs.
>
>This method may not be necessary if you have shank nuts that actually fit
>the
>holes in the wheels properly (i.e. without a 1/32" or so gap all the way
>around).
>
>Theo Smit
>tsmit@novatel.ca
>B382002705
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