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RE: Roll Bar and Questions

To: "'Brad Joern'" <bjoern@purdue.edu>
Subject: RE: Roll Bar and Questions
From: Theo Smit <TSmit@novatel.ca>
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:59:02 -0600
I'll take a shot at defining some roll bar terminology.

Generally on bolt-in installations, you are required to use 3/16" plates of 20
square inches or larger at each hoop or stay mounting point, on _both_ sides of
the sheetmetal, i.e. you have to make backing plates for every mounting point,
and you have to use at least three, 3/8", grade 8 or better, through bolts and
nuts. On weld-in installations, you are required to use 0.100" plates of 20
square inches or more, and there is no requirement for backing plates, although
it is recommended that the plates be welded across a body seam or onto some
compound-shaped sheetmetal part to provide better rigidity and less possibility
of punch-through in the event of stress on the roll bar. Requirements of your
local sanctioning body may differ, but from a safety point of view, a roll bar
that is fastened by two bolts on each point without any backup plates, might as
well not be there. You'll just get hit by it when you crash.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Joern [SMTP:bjoern@purdue.edu]
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 9:53 AM
> To:   Theo Smit
> Cc:   'James Barrett'; RayKReese@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject:      Re: Roll Bar and Questions
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> I guess I'm generally a lurker here, but I have a roll bars on my car that
> seems
> pretty well designed.  I am trying to take it out as I have a rusty midwestern
> car
> in need of a total makeover.  I am really ignorant about the terminology here,
> but
> I'll giv it a shot.  This bar is bolted through the top front of the "back
> seat"
> area on each side of the car.  This is a one piece bent roll bar about 2"
> diameter.
        []  That would be the "main hoop"
> It is braced at the back of this "back seat" area on each side with another 2"
> diameter curved bar on each side.
        []  These are the "rear stays" and they really should be straight.
>   The bracket is bolted through the side of the
> rear well well.  On the large hoop in there is another straight 2" bar welded
> to the
> hoop from the low side passenger to the top side drivers side. 
        []  The "diagonal". Most sanctioning bodies require one.
>  There is another
> small curved bar going from the cross piece to left side of the main bar.
        []  This bar is intended to keep the seat from collapsing rearwards and
provides a useful attachment point for shoulder harnesses.
>   The
> person who put it in enlarged the hole at the bottom of the "back seat area",
> under
> the car to access the mounting bolts.  This worked fine for installation, but
> I will
> be grinding the bolt heads off to remove the rollbar. 
        []  It might be less messy to centerpunch the top of the bolt head and
drill them out (like you would do with a pop rivet). You won't get carbide chips
embedded everywhere.
>  This rollbar configuration
> allows the hard top to fit and as far as I know, the convertible top as well.
> I
> know the top goes over the roll bar no problem, but the previous owner mounted
> the
> front frame piece that mounts on the windshield on backwards.  I have no idea
> if
> this configuration is novel or in adherence to any rules for racing, but it
> seems to
> work.
> 
> My car is 1904, I think, and pretty darn rusty (everything below door level
> basically).  If anyone has any resources to help me pull this thing apart, I
> am
> desperate.  The car is complete down to the air cleaner, washer bottle, and
> radiator
> overflow, but no clock.  It has a 4 barrell holley, and I have the original
> 2bbl and
> manifold.  The chrome valve cover serial number matches the engine code
> number.  Its
> too embarrasing to drive and not likely safe, so I am in dissambly mode.  I am
> videotaping the experience so I can eventually put things back together.
> Please
> help!!!
        []  One source for replacement parts that is near you is Rob Martel
([robmartel@hotmail.com]). He is located in Barrie, Ontario, and might also be
able to give you pointers on where to cut and where not to.  
>  --
> Brad C. Joern
> Associate Professor,
> Soil Chemistry/Plant Nutrition
> Department of Agronomy
> 1150 Lilly Hall of Life Sciences
> Purdue University
> West Lafayette, IN 47907-1150
> TEL:(765)494-9767
> FAX:(765)496-2926
> E-mail:bjoern@purdue.edu
> 
        []  Theo Smit
        tsmit@novatel.ca
        B382002705

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