> > I can't speak for the servo rebuild, but you might want to do some
> > research regarding re-sleeving of master cylinders with stainless.
> > I've heard, but not personally verified the following:
> >
> > 1. That silicone brake fluid will seep past a stainless sleeve/cylinder
> > interface.
> >
> > 2. That stainless sleeves must be interference fit into the master
> > cylinder and that the aluminum they are made of is not strong enough
> > for this purpose. Another possible issue is the different thermal
> > expansion rates for stainless and aluminum.
> >
> > Roland
>
>
>
>
> A good thought, Roland. Although the original user of one firm seems to
> have had no problem. Besides, not sure about the synthetic in the brakes
> yet. Using it in the clutch to see what happens. Easier to replace.
When I kinda looked into this a few years back, one person told me that
he had problems with seeping silicone fluid even in his brass
re-sleeved MC. Others told me that hadn't experienced this problem.
>
> Most sleevers use brass, which has an even higher thermal expansion, but
> probably not as high as the aluminum, so maybe it keeps outer contact
> better. These are made with a friction/press fit, so some expansion still
> leaves compression between the sleeves and the cylinder.
Apparently this isn't universal. One West Coast outfit that does brass
re-sleeving bonds them in, or claims to.
For individual cylinders it's worth shopping around for a good price on
a new ones before going the re-sleeve route, IMO. When I re-did my
hydraulics I found a place selling brand new Girling master cylinders
for $60 ea. I needed three- two brake and one clutch. At that time
White Post was charging something like $50/cylinder for re-sleeving.
Since the re-sleeving didn't include new seals, it was actually cheaper
for me to buy new master cylinders. A new clutch slave was a bit more
at $80, but still pretty close to a wash with the rebuild kit added to
the re-sleeve.
Roland
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