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RE: Thermostat housing

To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: RE: Thermostat housing
From: Theo Smit <TSmit@novatel.ca>
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 12:55:05 -0600
Bingo. Eyeball judgment says that the lower hole is also just obscured by the
upper edge of the water pump, which means that has to come off also. If the
thread that's in there is not too badly gored out, I am planning to make a
temporary repair by cleaning the threads (even that means I have to cut a tap so
it's short enough to clear the water pump) and putting in a stud so I stress the
remaining threads as little as possible. 

I just want to know what the original thread was (coarse or fine) so I can do
this without doing any more damage. When the engine comes out, I'll Helicoil
that hole, but I would like a short-term solution.

Theo Smit
tsmit@novatel.ca
B382002705


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Palmer [SMTP:rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, October 01, 1998 12:24 PM
> To:   Craig Wright; Theo Smit
> Cc:   tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject:      Re: Thermostat housing
> 
> At 09:44 AM 10/1/98 -0700, Craig Wright wrote:
> >Hello Theo,
> >
> >If I were you, I'd try to install a Heli-coil in the bad bolt hole. You
> can buy a kit for
> >different sizes at most large auto stores. The process is to drill the
> hole a littles
> >larger and use the tap supplied with the kit to tap the hole slightly
> larger. You then
> >screw in a coil that looks like a spring and you are then back to the
> original, desired
> >thread size, and it is just as strong as it was originally. Takes about
> and hour.
> >
> >Craig Wright
> >
> 
> Craig,
> 
> I assume that one-hour installation time doesn't include removing the
> radiator, which is necessary unless you happen to have a right-angle drill
> motor to drill the thermostat housing holes with.
> 
> 
> Robert L. Palmer
> Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
> rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
> rpalmer@cts.com

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