FAIR WARNING: This is a long message. If you have no interest in Tiger cooling,
stop here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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What's in a name?
I have been doing a "literature survey" of the available electric fans in the
14" size range. This size, with a little engine-uity, will be the most
likely to fit in front of the radiator without cutting metal.
For those who have no cooling issues under any conditions, including
bumper-to-bumper at high summer, stop reading here. I am
repeatedly told that a good running stock Tiger has no cooling problems. That
may be true, but I'll bet they've never been on the 101 in
summer, at high noon on Sunday when the world is coming home from their weekend
jaunt.
BASIC START
Know I now that there are many Tiger's out there who never have a cooling
problem, and some that overheat when parked in a garage all
night. No Band-Aid cure, such as a fan, will help when there is something wrong
with the proper operation of the cooling system. The
radiator must be free of clogged passages, and preferably of the newest thin,
high fin count, high tube count, 4 row design. These are
available to fit your stock header tanks with no alteration. The water pump
should be at least as good as a stock unit in good condition. The
hoses should be in good shape, and not "soggy" when squeezed. The lower hose
should have a wire insert to prevent suction collapse. The
fan should be at least stock, however I have had very good luck with the
asymmetrical 6 blade Canadian made Ford fan, and others report
Volvo fans (I am unsure of which year/model). Watch out for hitting the rack
with the tip. I had my Ford fan cut down, and just found
some tip rubbing. A good quality anti-freeze should be used, in accordance with
your weather conditions, but at least 50/50. I use distilled
(not de-ionized) water to reduce electrical conductivity and electrolysis of the
lighter metals, as well as getting dissolved minerals out of the
system. This raises the boiling point (lowers freeze point for those outside of
the sun belt) and provides the all important corrosion protection for about 1
year. Additives may renew this, but a good drain and refill annually is
recommended.
OPTIONS
I have used a Gano filter to catch scale trying to get to my new radiator
(About $30 at early Mustang supply dealers, or C.A.T. to
members). It needs emptying the first month, the 6th month, and, depending on
how it looked then, annually. My version is transparent,
although a solid brass unit is available. Being transparent doesn't help
because I can't see through the anti-freeze, but draining the radiator
just a little is enough to get a view of the trap. Special precautions must be
taken to assure the hose clamps do not back off the unbarbed
unit. I put a straight piece of stainless worm clamp band, then bent the ends
back over the two hose clamps, on the opposite side from the
two clamps screws. Then, after tightening, the screws are tied to each other
with stainless tie-wire (supplied).
Another, similar device that just hit the stores, is from Mr. Gasket, Part
#4384 in 1 1/4 inch size. This unit looks like polished aluminum,
has barbed ends, and the large middle section screws together to hold a flat
brass screen against an O-ring. I think brazing a big brass washer brazed to
this screen would keep it from collapsing if partially obstructed. No dual
cones, like the Gano, but easier to service. About $40.
Watch out for fan clearance to device or hose. I had partly eaten through my
upper hose and caught it just in time. A bracket mounted to
the water pump holds the hose in it's proper location.
ELECTRIC FANS
Once these preliminaries are done, and you still have some heat issue, a helper
fan can be considered.I have read multiple catalogs and
compared specs on dimensions of O.D., thickness at edge, maximum thickness,
mounting type, fan design, shroud design, advertised flow
rate capability, current requirements, accessory controls, and price. There are
two 14" fans that seem pretty interesting.
One is made by Derale and costs about $99, Part # 16514. It has a complete fan
shroud that can be mounted directly to the radiator by nylon
or the steel thru-ties supplied, or additional cost bracket components. The
unit is configured as a "puller fan", but can be made a "pusher" by simply
removing the blade and turning it around. Controls are available, but extra.
The fan blades are curved, I believe to reduce noise and
increase flow, and connected at the tips for structural stiffness and flow
enhancement. The shroud is complete and also protects the fan and
your fingers from making contact. Flow is over 1000 CFM, and takes about 9
amps. It has a flat motor, and is thin at the shroud and to the
end of the motor.
Another 14" fan is made by Hayden, Part 3690. The catalog specifications are
similar, but not identical. This one comes with nylon ties that
connect to spring loaded clamps holding the unit at the shroud, and it is
configured as a pusher. Once again, a fan reversal changes
this, but it is already correct for front mounting. It is generally available
at most parts stores for $80, but Pep Boys sells it at $70.
I went to my local PAW to compare these two units, just to see what $25 more
will buy. We took them both out of their boxes and laid them
next to each other. The units were not just similar, they were IDENTICAL. Even
to the labels and the mold numbers in the plastic. See,
reading all this gives you an invaluable marketing lesson, and may save you $25.
INSTALLATION TIPS
Thanks to Allan Connell for the following installation advice. Remove the
center chrome from the grille. Mark the radiator face lightly with
tape or chalk at the water pump center. Remove the fan shroud and blades.
Cover the radiator with a thin sheet of veneer or masonite to
protect the core. Undo the radiator bolts, and whatever hoses are necessary,
to tilt the radiator towards the block (masonite firmly in place).
This opens up a gap at the top of the header. Slide the fan into the grill and
push the 3/4 inch shroud tip, at the angle forced by the valance,
through the gap. When enough has been angled through, straighten up the fan to
a vertical position and move it back to the front of the
header. Replace the radiator. Center the fan to the pump in the horizontal
plane, and as much in the vertical plane as room allows. Put in the mounting
ties. There is enough space between fins for these 4 ties, in my high density
radiator, not to interfere. Reinstall radiator, fan,
housing, etc.
CONTROLS
As to controllers. There are many options. These include Fixed temperature
range thermostats, adjustable range thermostats, and manual
switching. The fixed and adjustable can be enabled only when the ignition is
on, or at any time, depending on where you connect the
wires. The fixed units are set to go on at about 185 and off at about 170 F
(+/- tolerance). This seems, to me, to be a little low for Tigers.
My engine is still very comfortable at 190, although my feet may not be, that is
an insulation detail. The adjustable can be set between 90 and 230 F. Both
have a power relay, relay bracket, wire, instructions, and a sensing probe that
looked pretty big in diameter. A close look at my fan revealed a fairly good
space between the last horizontal fin and the header, and similar gap between
tube rows, to allow insertion without
damage. All of these can be manually overridden thru the relay enable circuit.
For my personal tastes, I prefer a manual switch. I know when I need it, and
when I don't, and it reduces cost and increases reliability.
WIRING
There are units on the market that switch the main fan power directly Through a
dash area switch. I do not recommend putting 10 amps thru
your interior. Buy a simple on/off (or illuminated on/off) switch for interior
mounting (hidden or Lucas dash mount is individual). Buy a
good power relay and holder of the square type currently used in most cars. I
found some at an electronics store in their car stereo
department good for 25 amps in a square plastic housing. A good place to mount
this relay connector is against the side of the air inlet sheet
metal, near your power availability side (believe driver side). The connector
has a hole for a bolt or sheet metal screw (and this could be a
good ground point as well. To be true to the Rootes original design criteria,
use a bolt with an uncaged and inaccessible nut on the other
side. {8-> Run the fan wires to the relay connector. The ground wire from the
connector can be installed with a ring crimp end to the relay
mount screw. Clean off paint under washer or head if you use a bolt. An equally
heavy power lead is connected to convenient "hot" wire by
finding a terminal, or use a 3M crimp connector (less desirable). Lighter duty
wire can connect the relay control. One wire to ground (same
screw) and one wire to the dash switch. The dash switch needs connection to the
"run" side of the ignition switch, or something that is
already connected to that switch. There is very little current needed to
operate the relay. A very handy item at your favorite electronics store,
and a few good auto parts stores, is an adapter for 1/4 inch spade connectors.
These consists of a female 1/4 inch spade connector and two
male connectors. Some are side-by-side, and some are bent around to make both
male extensions parallel, instead of inline. A needle nose
can convert the flat one. The best have insulation premolded. Tape, or shrink
wrap, if not to avoid accidental contacts.
DISCLAIMER
Well, that's the cooling, comparison shopping, marketing, and "helpful hints"
column for today. Feel free to distribute this information, but
I do not claim that every fan marketed by Derale and by Hayden are the same,
just the two I looked at. The technical advice are the opinions of the author,
and are believed to be correct, but I cannot be responsible for any errors that
may have crept in, so don't send me the bill for your fried electrics, or
bleeding knuckles. Feel free to pass this data along, and if published I would
appreciate a little credit and a copy.
Thanks for your patience in reading this long one.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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