I had a Mercury Cougar (67) which had brake pedal mechanical
switch. We lived on a hill, and I kept having battery problems with the
car, but only at home. It turned out that the brake pedal's weigh being
pulled forward by gravity (Parked on hill facing down) would trip the
switch after a few minutes and turn on the brake lights, and there by
running down the battery by morning. I'll stick to the light pressure
of the hydraulic switches.
Surprisingly, None of You "Experts" caught my one glaring
oversight in my previous post about the switch I used. almost ALL oil
pressure switches are in the ON position when there is NO pressure. I
had to go through a whole bunch of switches to find one that was the
opposite of this. Goes to ON with pressure. I have no idea what car or
truck it actually came from. My guess is that it would have had an
electronic cluster so that it could monitor the existence of the switch.
Don't actually know. It just fit, and worked perfectly, and went on
with just the pressure needed to stretch the brake shoe springs. At the
time, BAP-GEON our local European auto parts distributor did not have
the correct switch.
Rich
> ----------
> From: CoolVT@aol.com[SMTP:CoolVT@aol.com]
> Reply To: CoolVT@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 1997 2:10 PM
> To: Steven.Metcalfe@amermsx.med.ge.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: brake lite switch
>
> The mechanical switch rather than the Tiger's hydralic is a good idea.
> I
> also like it to light up with the smallest of pressure. I recently
> installed
> one on a motorcycle and it has the same problem. It takes quite a
> little
> pressure to light it up. Motorcycles with mechanical switches can be
> adjusted so that contact is made if the pedal is just brushed. This
> is the
> set-up I prefer.
>
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