Well Ron is more of a cooling expert than I am!
I agree with Ron that you appear to have a problem that's not going to be
solved with any water pump unless what you have is broken or seized.
You don't say what kind of radiator you have - modern core design or
copper/brass or whatever. You don't say if it is vertical or cross flow.
You don't say if you have a thermostat or not and if you don't have one and
are using a blanking sleeve you don't say if you have blocked off the bypass
or not.
Have you checked the temperature reading with a different gauge?
You don't say what pump you have or what pulley it has on it - have you
pulled the pump to see if the impellor is even still attached to it or is it
jammed hard against block.
Given you have cooling problems at idle and race speeds the rad looks to be
the culprit.
What is 240 in Centrigrade - about 110C. I've run my engine up to 110 if
not 115C momentarily when doing a cooling system test but generally like it
below 105C if not 95C. However, I don't think the oil temp has ever been over
a
100C (even on a very long dyno pull) and certainly not at the those temps
when doing a cooling system test (or on that long dyno pull).
Regards
Weslake-Monza 1330
In a message dated 19/01/2009 18:29:07 GMT Standard Time, soavero@yahoo.com
writes:
--- On Mon, 1/19/09, Matt Hagopian <mhagopian@hoppetool.com> wrote:
> with a 6 blade fan on the motor no shroud. It overheats to
> about 240 when
> sitting stil and while racing.
You've probably already damaged the head. Get the head and block flat and
get a Ron Davis radiator. If you're running 240 in both conditions, you're
picking flyshit out of pepper with an electric waterpump discussion.
Ron
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