Hi Jim,
I agree, solder is a better way to go and your tip is a good one. I
personally don't care for the typical crimp-on connectors that you
find in the auto parts stores either. In my early days of doing this
stuff, I was able to get the original machine installed type
connectors and insulators that were used in the manufacture of
American automobiles, so I was spoiled. the last couple years, I have
purchased the brass bullet style connectors and slip connectors that
are like the original style and solder those. I find those work best
and are about the easiest to work with. The other type I will use in
some applications are the Molex style bullet connectors which I crimp
and solder.
However, there are a couple problems with someone with little
experience soldering doing this. I have found that copper wire of the
vintage we are taking about is usually so oxidized that solder will
not flow to it. Even scraping and the use of flux will not help much.
Generally speaking, (in my experience anyway), people who do not have
experience soldering or who have not been taught properly will make
cold solder joints, making matters worse and more frustrating. That
is why I didn't go there.
Gerard
At 9:43 AM -0400 6/11/03, Jim Juhas wrote:
>Alix:
>
>I have a possible "we tight" splicing solution and what has been for me a
>preferable alternative to crimp connectors. Many times I have found crimped
>connections pulled loose or corroded, and the mechanical weak point where the
>crimped connector meets the strands of wire is another failure source from
>vibration and the like.
>
>Years ago, when I used to repair televisions and other electronics, we had
>"splices" available that were small coils of tinned and
>solder-coated wire, about
>a quarter inch long, into which you would insert the two stripped ends of the
>wire you were repairing. A touch of the solder gun made the joint, and tape
>protected it.
>
>I've long since been unable to find these splices, but now make my
>own. I don't
>use tinned wire to make the coils, but I do use copper for light duty stuff
>(stripped telephone hookup cable works well for this) and more recently,
>particularly for the heavier gauges found in automotive
>applications, I use .023
>or .030 mig welding wire. I wind this on the shank of a drill bit
>selected for
>the appropriate size, then just cut to length with side cutters.
>This splice is
>then soldered from the outside. Sometimes I will tin the end of the
>wires first
>before inserting in to the splice. The mig wire especially is very
>stiff, and so
>leaves plenty of space for solder to flow, and provides a firm
>mechanical support
>for the splice. I finish off with heat shrink tubing. (I buy my supplies of
>this from various swap meets). The splice itself is barely larger than the
>insulated wire itself, and the heat shrink seals it against the
>perils of nature
>and the oil splash of British cars.
>
>More work, but neater, MUCH more secure, and cheap.
>
>Jim
>
>gerard wrote:
>
>> Alix.
>>
>> ... At least get some decent
>> crimp-on insulated connectors and fix the loose bits first.
>>
>> >
>> >On the up side, the new intake duct works like a charm and I used the "we
>> >tight" solution of a twist tie on the damper. Cooler air has arrived!
> > >
> > >Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > >--
> > >Alix
--
One meets his destiny often in the road he takes to avoid it.
~French Proverb
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