Alix:
I have a possible "we tight" splicing solution and what has been for me a
preferable alternative to crimp connectors. Many times I have found crimped
connections pulled loose or corroded, and the mechanical weak point where the
crimped connector meets the strands of wire is another failure source from
vibration and the like.
Years ago, when I used to repair televisions and other electronics, we had
"splices" available that were small coils of tinned and solder-coated wire,
about
a quarter inch long, into which you would insert the two stripped ends of the
wire you were repairing. A touch of the solder gun made the joint, and tape
protected it.
I've long since been unable to find these splices, but now make my own. I don't
use tinned wire to make the coils, but I do use copper for light duty stuff
(stripped telephone hookup cable works well for this) and more recently,
particularly for the heavier gauges found in automotive applications, I use .023
or .030 mig welding wire. I wind this on the shank of a drill bit selected for
the appropriate size, then just cut to length with side cutters. This splice is
then soldered from the outside. Sometimes I will tin the end of the wires first
before inserting in to the splice. The mig wire especially is very stiff, and
so
leaves plenty of space for solder to flow, and provides a firm mechanical
support
for the splice. I finish off with heat shrink tubing. (I buy my supplies of
this from various swap meets). The splice itself is barely larger than the
insulated wire itself, and the heat shrink seals it against the perils of nature
and the oil splash of British cars.
More work, but neater, MUCH more secure, and cheap.
Jim
gerard wrote:
> Alix.
>
> ... At least get some decent
> crimp-on insulated connectors and fix the loose bits first.
>
> >
> >On the up side, the new intake duct works like a charm and I used the "we
> >tight" solution of a twist tie on the damper. Cooler air has arrived!
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >--
> >Alix
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