Sorry for bombing my "Address Book, Midget" with this blanket appeal, but
I'm gettin' stressed! I'm having a bit of a problem getting the front
spindle nut down far enough to reveal the cotter pin hole through the castle
slots.
I reviewed all the archived stuff on switching from ball bearings to tapered
roller bearings up front, I bought the correct inner and outer bearings, I
pressed in the outer races, inserted the bearings per usual way. I put on
the keyed washer and the castle nut. I then followed the procedure
described in the archives by the Timken engineer who wrote back to one of
the listers (Jeff Boatright?) on tightening and adjusting.
I tightened the nut while turning the hub until I could no longer turn it by
hand. (pretty darn tight). I suppose this should seat the bearings and
pull everything in to where it's supposed to be. I then backed off the nut
until I could feel about .001-.003 endfloat (which was a bit more backing
off than I had expected before I got the little bit of perceptible
movement). Lo and behold, I can only see about half of the cotter pin hole
through the castle! If I tighten down to where I can get in the pin, I have
no endfloat and the rotation of the hub is significantly tighter.
Additional information: I am using no shims and (after reading all the pros
and cons), decided to convert without the use of the center spacer.
What should I do????
Race day at VIR is quickly approaching. :-(
--JohnD
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