I have changed the hydraulic brake light switch twicw since restoring my Bugeye
and
you DO NOT have to bleed the brakes when you change the brake light switch. A
few
drops may come out out of the brass fitting, but just scew in the replacement
and
try your brakes. I think you will find the pedal just as hard as before.
Mike MacLean Supercharged 60 Sprite
"Peter C." wrote:
> Geoff,
> A "hint" that may help to lessen the need for bleeding, which you
> will likely have to do when you change the switch, which you'll likely have
> to do, is to put a plastic bag or some-such under the master cylinder cap.
> I generally remove the cap, fill the master to the top, put a bag over it
> and re-cap thus lessening the likelihood of fluid escaping.
> Peter C
> ==
> At 03:06 PM 9/9/2001, Geoff Branch wrote:
> >Having just bled the Mini's brakes for the umpteenth time, and FINALLY
>getting
> >a really good pedal, the durn brake lites don't work!!!! I crossed the
>wires
> >on the hydraulic switch and they do come on so it must be the switch.
>Could
> >there be air hung up in back of the switch? Any ideas why this happened when
> >bleeding? (coincidence of bad switch?). I am not looking forward to going
> >through bleeding again....one of my least favorite tasks. Thanks.Geoff
>Branch
> >'74 Meejit "Yellow Peril"
> >'72 Innocenti 1300 Mini
>
> t.
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