No other cables getting hot. I have TWO grounds from the engine to the
chassis. I firmly believe that the negative battey cable that I jury rigged an
extension on is the culprit. (Positve ground car). I will install a generic
battery cable of sufficient length from Pep Boys today and report back to the
list.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
Mike & Kerry Gigante wrote:
> I reckon Bryan has it. Taking bets?
>
> Check the choke cable, that may be getting hot too
> and if it is, then BINGO!
>
> (the earth path should be through a strap from engine to body)
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bryan Vandiver" <bryan.vandiver@sun.com>
> To: "Mike Maclean" <macleans@earthlink.net>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Huh?
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > This may be an obvious question, but you do have the ground strap
> > connected that goes from the engine to the chassie, under the car???
> > (not the one from the battery)
> > If not, that would explain why it's putting so much current through the
> > pull switch. If it is in place, you better check it for resistance.
> >
> > - Bryan
> >
> > Mike Maclean wrote:
> > >
> > > Today I received a new (repro) starter switch for the Bugeye. I was
> > > hoping that this would fix my problem with the overheating starter pull
> > > wire. I had already rebuilt the starter, so I installed it tonight and
> > > pulled the starter pull knob and watched the wire again. Well, guess
> > > what boys and girls, it STILL gets hot! The only component left in the
> > > starter circuit that is still in question is the negative cable from the
> > > battery to the starter switch. I bought the cable from Norman Nock. I
> > > was looking for a helmet head battery cable for the negative side.
> > > After many calls, Norman's company in Stockton, California said they had
> > > a repro. I ordered it and waited. When it arrived the darn thing was
> > > too short. I went to the welding supply store and bought a length of
> > > matching type cable. I added about 8 inches to the helmet head cable by
> > > intertwining the separate wires beneath the outer sheath and sweat
> > > soldering the whole mess together. I then just wrapped electrical tape
> > > around the area. Not exactly concours, but I thought it would work
> > > until I could find a longer replacement.
> > > Does the resistance generated by this lousy connection have
> > > something to do with the problem? The joint is between the battery and
> > > the starter switch, the heat generated in the pull wire is on the other
> > > side of the joint. Does that matter?
> > > Unless someone tells me that my electrical surgery should not cause
> > > a problem, tomorrow I will get a generic battery cable of sufficient
> > > length and try again. There isn't much left to replace.
> > > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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