Chris,
Just some thoughts.....
1) definitely change the oil and the filter. Use a light oil at first, but
don't drive it around with the light oil. THese engines run a little hot, and
the oil will be like water in no time at all.
2) definitely drain the fuel (easiest way is to disconnect the rubber fuel line
from the solid line on the (LHD) passenger side of the transmission tunnel.
Just let the old fuel drain into a bucket. I'd replace that rubber fuel line
while you're there. It's cheap and easy.
3) It's easy (and cheap) just to pull the whole carb and do a quick overhaul
(assuming it's the Stomberg). Pick up an overhaul kit and the Haynes Weber
(and SU and Stomberg) book from your local auto parts place (the book, not the
kit; the kit's available from the usual suspects - email Ed Kaler from the
list justbrits@mediaone.net as he's a Moss distributer). Make sure the float
assembly is clean and free of gook (if it gets stuck and floods the engine,
it'll destroy it) and make sure the rubber diaphram on the carb piston is not
dried up. The kit has a replacement. While you're there, replace the little
O ring in the needle assembly. It doesn't come in the kit, but your local
hardware store should have one. Otherwise, you'll be replacing the damper
fluid regularly.
4) Check all the coolant hoses for cracks. I don't think you HAVE to change
the fluid, but I would.
5) Check that the belt is not dried up.
6) I would remove the plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders (something
light, like Dextron III ATFluid) to loosen up the rings (let it sit with the
oil for a few hours). Unless you already tried to turn it over and it turned.
7) ALSO - check the crankshaft endfloat. Use a small prybar, and push the
crank as far back as it'll go (i.e. push it into the engine via the pulley on
the front, don't kill it though). Set up a dial indicator and then push the
clutch in and out a few times. If the crank moved forward more than 0.014",
then you have thrust washer issues. I wouldn't start the car until you pull
the engine and replace the washers. THis is a COMMON problem with these cars.
Proper float should be between 0.006" and 0.014"
8) That's it. Charge it up, and turn it over. Put the plugs back in and start
it. There's really nothing to check on the electronic ignition unless it
doesn't start. It probably has an aftermarket ignition as the originals were
crap. If you have trouble starting it, we'll need to know what kind of
ignition before we can help.
I can't think of anything else. Good luck.
Mike
PS: Depending on where you are, a lister can probably come over and help you
with a few of these things.
cbking <cbking@mail.alum.rpi.edu> wrote:
> Hmmm, i should have been a little more specific. I'm a little new at this.
>;-)
The Midget has 42,000 original miles on it, last ran in 1994, never been
rebuilt to my knowledge. My aim for now is to get the motor running so I can
more easily maneuver it about the yard. The previous owner said it did crank
and sputter as recently as a month or two ago.
My plan is to get cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and battery, drain gas and replace,
change oil and filter, and give her a spin. I saw a post to the list about
cranking without the plugs to circulate oil in the engine. I'll do this, too,
as it seems a good idea. Is there anything else really important I may be
missing?
Thanks.
-=Chris
Chris King - cbking@alum.rpi.edu
"My brain's trying to escape; you scared it."
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From Ajhsys at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:40:03 EST
>In a message dated 1/23/01 8:13:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>cbking@mail.alum.rpi.edu writes:
>
>
>> I just picked up a '79 Midget that of course needs work. The chassis looks
>> solid (a little rust under the doors and in the rear quarter behind the
>> wheels), but it hasn't been run since 1994. Any advice on how to go about
>>
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>Oh, is that all? There are quite a few web sites that contain lots of info
>on the correct procedures for resurrecting a car. I think there is way too
>much to remember and type into an e-mail, and I wouldn't want you to miss a
>step. Your best bet is to take everything apart, clean every piece, and put
>it all back together, replacing anything that is worn. (Allow at least two
>weekends for this job.)
>
>Maybe some other listers can suggest the best web sites for real help! :-)
>
>Allen Hefner
>SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
>'77 Midget
>'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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