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Re: back to Sears!

To: Daniel Thompson <dthompso@total.net>
Subject: Re: back to Sears!
From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 23:29:17 -0500
Cc: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Positive Earth Drivers Club
References: <368035BE.750F@total.net>
Reply-to: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Are you guys bending the lock tab off back before you undo the nut?
I never had any problems. undo the lock tab, put breaker bar and 1 5/16"
socket on nut, remove coil wire, hit key (or starter cable) and it comes
right off.
If the car does not crank, spray with liquid wrench (not WD40) smack it
once with a big hammer, and unscrew it! If the engine is on the bench
and the pan is off, place a piece of wood in the crank shaft, have some
one hold counter pressure on the block and use the breaker bar.
Counter pressure at my house is usually me standing on the block.

Tech tip;
If you have a used main bearing shell, it makes a nice lock for the
flywheel. Just wedge it in between the flywheel teeth and the starter
hole. Instant engine lock. I have slightly bent one undoing a pulley nut
but it always seem to work.

Frank  remember, "we tight"

Daniel Thompson wrote:
> 
> This is not the first time!
> 
> . heated with a torch to red hot
> . 1-5/16" socket, heavy duty
> . 1/2 to 3/4" adapter
> . 5 foot tommy or "pry" bar
> . 2 people standing on the engine block
> . myself with one foot on the pry bar and one foot braced against the
> block
> . crankshaft pulley bolt did not budge
> . adapter sheared off like butter
> 
> Back to Sears for another one, lifetime guarantee!
> 
> This block will go to the local British car specialist for professional
> help!
> 
> I love British cars!
> 
> Daniel T.

-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Lots of LBCs
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut

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