I've always used kerosene instead of (say) paint thinner because it
is kinder to seals (the rubber kind not the fish eaters!).
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Gronberg, John <john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com>
To: 'Peter C' <nosimport@mailbag.com>; Lancer7676@aol.com
<Lancer7676@aol.com>; Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 5:56 AM
Subject: RE: Shock filling
>Timing is everything:
>Last night I decided to do some shock absorber maintenance. I picked up a
>quart of 20W "Fork" oil at the local Honda motorcycle dealer. For those of
>you who have followed any of the cat lines, the motorcycle shops carry this
>fluid because the front end of motorcycles use this fluid inside the
dampers
>on most motorcycles. It comes in various weights from 5W to 30W. You can
>play around with heavier weights but most individuals indicate the 20W most
>closely resembles the original Armstrong shock fluid. I started with the
>rear shock since the rear shocks have been on the car since 1987. The
fluid
>inside was pretty much up to the correct line(since I have been checking
the
>level about every other year), but there was considerable "black" stuff
>inside. Probably a mixture of rubber "o" ring pieces and aluminum fillings.
>Cleaned out the shock with paint thinner and blew out with compressed air.
>Refilled with new fluid and reassembled.
>Regards
>John Gronberg
>Siemens Building Technologies, Inc.
>Buffalo Grove, Illinois 60089-4513
>847-215-1050 ex 5092
>john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Peter C [SMTP:nosimport@mailbag.com]
>> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 1998 6:51 PM
>> To: Lancer7676@aol.com; Jeff Boatright
>> Cc: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
>> Subject: Shock filling
>>
>> Listers,
>> Several questions regarding filling of shox. First point; the shox
>> are
>> meant to be completely full of oil save a small pocket of air at the
>> highest point. If you are topping up, then squirting a suitable oil into
>> the filler plug (small one) with an oil can does great. As the shox sit
on
>> the car (if you can get access) will be fine, no jacking or removing or
>> bleeding necessary. If they have gotten empty, then it is best to remove
>> them and do the work on the bench as you don't want to trap any air in
the
>> valving (big nut). As follows: Fronts... remove the valve and the
>> springs... they wont fly out, but note the order. Then remove the small
>> nut
>> (filler) and fill with oil through the small hole as best you can NOT
>> moving the arm and having the shock sitting flat on the bench. Be patient
>> as there are only 2 little holes that allow the oil from the filler into
>> the body. (It is easier to remove the 6 screws and take the lid off and
>> fill it with the shock turned uprite, but you risk future leaks from that
>> gasket.) With the shock laying flat on the bench (as it does on the car),
>> clamp it so you can swing the arm fully. Now pour oil into the valve hole
>> and when full SLOWLY move the arm in one direction whilst continuing to
>> fill the valve hole, then move the arm the other way and keep pouring in
>> oil. Repeat slowly until there are no more bubbles and the hole is full.
>> Now insert the valve stuff that you've cleaned, (let the excess oil run
>> out) and tighten the nut. The shock should be full of oil except for that
>> little turret bit where the filler is. That is the air pocket for
>> expansion.
>> The rear works the same, just the clamping can be a little bit
>> trickier.
>> Just remember, air rises so whatever your filling should be the highest
>> point. 1/4 eliptic folks have the filler on the lid and CAN overfill.
>> Semi-eliptoids have the filler on the body to allow for the air pocket.
>> Sorry if this is too much, but I want to be clear about something I
>> can
>> now do in my sleep (and have done)
>> One more thing, if when you've got them all bled out and closed up
>> but you
>> can't move the arm, then you've still got air. Fluid pressure is required
>> to open the valve, air can't and so it (locks up)
>> Good Luck Peter C
>>
>> Peter Caldwell
>> 1 very rough Innocenti
>> (the Sprite with an accent)
>> among other LBCs and 4WDBCs
>> Contact for: The Columbia County Bonspiel
>> Curling on 13 sheets @ 5 clubs in WI
>> Feb 5 - 7 1999
>
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