Timing is everything:
Last night I decided to do some shock absorber maintenance. I picked up a
quart of 20W "Fork" oil at the local Honda motorcycle dealer. For those of
you who have followed any of the cat lines, the motorcycle shops carry this
fluid because the front end of motorcycles use this fluid inside the dampers
on most motorcycles. It comes in various weights from 5W to 30W. You can
play around with heavier weights but most individuals indicate the 20W most
closely resembles the original Armstrong shock fluid. I started with the
rear shock since the rear shocks have been on the car since 1987. The fluid
inside was pretty much up to the correct line(since I have been checking the
level about every other year), but there was considerable "black" stuff
inside. Probably a mixture of rubber "o" ring pieces and aluminum fillings.
Cleaned out the shock with paint thinner and blew out with compressed air.
Refilled with new fluid and reassembled.
Regards
John Gronberg
Siemens Building Technologies, Inc.
Buffalo Grove, Illinois 60089-4513
847-215-1050 ex 5092
john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter C [SMTP:nosimport@mailbag.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 1998 6:51 PM
> To: Lancer7676@aol.com; Jeff Boatright
> Cc: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Shock filling
>
> Listers,
> Several questions regarding filling of shox. First point; the shox
> are
> meant to be completely full of oil save a small pocket of air at the
> highest point. If you are topping up, then squirting a suitable oil into
> the filler plug (small one) with an oil can does great. As the shox sit on
> the car (if you can get access) will be fine, no jacking or removing or
> bleeding necessary. If they have gotten empty, then it is best to remove
> them and do the work on the bench as you don't want to trap any air in the
> valving (big nut). As follows: Fronts... remove the valve and the
> springs... they wont fly out, but note the order. Then remove the small
> nut
> (filler) and fill with oil through the small hole as best you can NOT
> moving the arm and having the shock sitting flat on the bench. Be patient
> as there are only 2 little holes that allow the oil from the filler into
> the body. (It is easier to remove the 6 screws and take the lid off and
> fill it with the shock turned uprite, but you risk future leaks from that
> gasket.) With the shock laying flat on the bench (as it does on the car),
> clamp it so you can swing the arm fully. Now pour oil into the valve hole
> and when full SLOWLY move the arm in one direction whilst continuing to
> fill the valve hole, then move the arm the other way and keep pouring in
> oil. Repeat slowly until there are no more bubbles and the hole is full.
> Now insert the valve stuff that you've cleaned, (let the excess oil run
> out) and tighten the nut. The shock should be full of oil except for that
> little turret bit where the filler is. That is the air pocket for
> expansion.
> The rear works the same, just the clamping can be a little bit
> trickier.
> Just remember, air rises so whatever your filling should be the highest
> point. 1/4 eliptic folks have the filler on the lid and CAN overfill.
> Semi-eliptoids have the filler on the body to allow for the air pocket.
> Sorry if this is too much, but I want to be clear about something I
> can
> now do in my sleep (and have done)
> One more thing, if when you've got them all bled out and closed up
> but you
> can't move the arm, then you've still got air. Fluid pressure is required
> to open the valve, air can't and so it (locks up)
> Good Luck Peter C
>
> Peter Caldwell
> 1 very rough Innocenti
> (the Sprite with an accent)
> among other LBCs and 4WDBCs
> Contact for: The Columbia County Bonspiel
> Curling on 13 sheets @ 5 clubs in WI
> Feb 5 - 7 1999
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