Moss sells a rebuild kit for the assembly as well as the switch itself.
They carry the same description, but the cheap one is the kit (o-rings and
seals) and the expensive one is the switch. They appear to be real Lockheed
parts. I have the same problem (currently solved with a pipe plug in the
switch hole). I just have to get up the nerve to tear it down and then
bleed the brakes again.
Tom Zuchowski
'61 Bugeye
Clemmons, NC
----------
> From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: ncannon <ncannon@cvn.net>; spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: Pressure Failure Switch
> Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 10:32 AM
>
> I don't believe the switches themselves are sealed against leakage. I
had
> a fluid leak from the switch after reinstalling it following a
restoration
> of my '73 Midget, so I replaced it with a new switch. It leaked, too.
The
> problem is really the o-rings on the shuttle valve inside the assembly.
If
> they are not leaking, there should be no fluid getting to the switch
> plunger.
> The o-rings are not available separately from the assembly, but you might
> be able to find some that will work at a place like Lowe's or Home Depot.
> They are about 1/4 inch in diameter.
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC USA
> '73 Midget GAN5UD126009G "OO NINE"
> "It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
>
> ----------
> > From: ncannon <ncannon@cvn.net>
> > To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: Pressure Failure Switch
> > Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 8:11 AM
> >
> > While flushing the brake lines on my 1976 MG Midget I noticed a drip
> > from the pressure failure switch in the pressure warning assembly. I
> > added a little air pressure and a pin hole stream of alcohol flowed
from
> > the switch. Can I replace just the switch or should I replace or
> > rebuild the entire assembly?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for all help!
> > Norm
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