Chris -
Leave the calipers alone. The probablility is beter than 95% that it's
the rubber brake hoses. If the caliper was stuck, you wouldn't have
gotten squirted when you opened the bleed nipple. The "squirt"
indicates that something in the system is keeping that pressure in the
caliper.
If you want to be sure, crack open the fitting to the front line by the
master cylinder. If it sprays frake fluid, the master cylinder is hung
up somehow. (Check your brake light switch to make sure it isn't
screwed in too far.) If it doesn't spray brake fluid (or just dribbles)
it's the rubber hoses. Replace them all at once (if one's bad, they're
all questionable).
Chris (feeling like I'm talking to myself) Kotting
ckotting@iwaynet.net
cfiddes@direct.ca wrote:
>
> Hi folks.
>
> After noticing diminished acceleration and gas mileage, I read a
> recent post on checking that the brakes are releasing completely
> when the brake pedal is released.
>
> I dutifully marched out to the garage, jacked up the car, depressed
> and released the brake pedal and went to spin my front tires. They spun,
> but reluctantly - clearly the pads were still in contact with the
> rotors. Checked the pads on both sides - plenty of material left, so it
> either isn't a huge problem, or I caught it early. Cracked the bleed
> nipple and got squirted, so I don't think I'm dealing with poor
> bleeding technique; brake pedal is solid and engages early in its
> travel. It's got to be at the caliper, right?
>
> I've never been "inside" a brake caliper and am hoping someone will
> explain to me what the likely cause is (what isn't working and how it
> should work).
>
> FWIW, I'm not going to try and fix the thing myself - I just want to
> understand the problem. I don't mind "fixing" my car so that it
> won't start, but I don't ever want to "fix" my car so it won't stop!
>
> Oh yeah, drums at the back work like a charm.
>
> Thanks guys and gals.
>
> Chris
> '76 Midget - taking its owner to his first british car show this weekend in
> Vancouver .
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