Hello Chris,
Before I would think about the calipers I would check the hoses. I did
an
MGA once where the inside of the hose was sluffing off and acting like a
one-way valve. ie. Fluid would push the piston out upon pedal application,
but when the pedal was released the inside of the hose would not allow
fluid to return, thus keeping the piston out. Usually, unless the outer
surface of the piston is highly corroded, the pistons will not hang, and,
usually, if they are corroded that much, the claipers leak. So if the
caliper is not leaking.......if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Fisher Jones
At 11:20 AM 5/15/98 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi folks.
>
>After noticing diminished acceleration and gas mileage, I read a
>recent post on checking that the brakes are releasing completely
>when the brake pedal is released.
>
>I dutifully marched out to the garage, jacked up the car, depressed
>and released the brake pedal and went to spin my front tires. They spun,
>but reluctantly - clearly the pads were still in contact with the
>rotors. Checked the pads on both sides - plenty of material left, so it
>either isn't a huge problem, or I caught it early. Cracked the bleed
>nipple and got squirted, so I don't think I'm dealing with poor
>bleeding technique; brake pedal is solid and engages early in its
>travel. It's got to be at the caliper, right?
>
>I've never been "inside" a brake caliper and am hoping someone will
>explain to me what the likely cause is (what isn't working and how it
>should work).
>
>FWIW, I'm not going to try and fix the thing myself - I just want to
>understand the problem. I don't mind "fixing" my car so that it
>won't start, but I don't ever want to "fix" my car so it won't stop!
>
>Oh yeah, drums at the back work like a charm.
>
>Thanks guys and gals.
>
>Chris
>'76 Midget - taking its owner to his first british car show this weekend in
>Vancouver .
>
>
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