You should leave in the plastic separators - they prevent the springs from
premature wear and provide some small protection from rust (they stop
the leaves from rusting together.
I'd hold on the sway bar until you have tried the car. The rear anti-sway
bar will
do two things for you apart from roll reduction 1) it will decrease the
maximum
grip at the rear (more oversteer/less understeer or as you guys say 'it
makes the
car more loose') 2) it will increase the likelihood of inside wheel spin
when cornering
under throttle.
Of course if you car has chronic understeer then you can fit the rear
anti-sway bar
if you wish (but I'd reduce front in preference). This in turn may
necessitate a LSD
if you drive very hard.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Deikis <Deikis@aol.com>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 11:44 AM
Subject: Spridget rear suspension
>Okay, the front end is rebuilt with the poly bushings, offsets, shock
shims,
>525# Winners Circle springs and 3/4 inch Addco swaybar, "competition"
valved
>rebult dampers from Apple, and spring pan lowering shims from Moss. Now
I've
>got the rear springs off and my cardboard parts box full of a rebuilt set
of
>stock dampers, lowering blocks, poly bushing set, and a bunch of new clamps
>and that poly stuff that goes between the spring leaves and I'm ready to go
to
>work.
>
>So, the question in my preparation of a streetable vintage racer
half-elliptic
>car:
>
>Do I pull apart and clean the leaves, put in the poly strips between each
>leaf, and re-assemble? Or should I remove one or more leaves to soften the
>springs...and, if so, should I then run heavier fluid in the rear dampers?
>
>Seems some racers stiffen the rear and some go softer. Any advice? If
>softer, does that necessitate a rear swaybar? I have one laying around and
>can fit it easily at this point. Advice?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>--John D.
>
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