I few years ago I noticed that my car had the exact same problem, and not
having a welding setup at
the time, I took it to a local pro. He did a good job TIG welding the cracks,
but he mentioned afterwards
that it was the thinnest metal he had ever seen in an auto body.
Since then I have welded some cracks in my trunk floorpan, and I agree, it is
very tricky. Long
ago some PO welded a replacement muffler mounting bracket, and he did a really
pathetic job.
I would not bother with the JB "Weld". You may want to double up the areas
around the screw holes with
fender washers or bits of sheet metal. In my opinion, you really only need to
grind down the bead
where the seat rail goes.
Doug Braun
'72 Spit
At 08:21 PM 11/6/2005 -0600, Larry Vaughan wrote:
>I had some cracks in my floor, caused by the seat rail flexing I guess. The
>cracks spread from the left front driver seat rail bolt hole. I put the
>thinnest wire available in my mig welder and had a go at welding up the
>cracks. After welding and grinding and patching holes over a period of 4 days,
>I began to question when I should stop. Is when no light shows through good
>enough? Do the beads need ground down smooth to prevent rust? Will a coat of
>epoxy, like JB weld, strengthen the areas that got ground down thinner than
>the original sheet metal dimensions?
>
>http://ljvaughan.homestead.com/sheetweld.html
>
>Larry
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