Michael, I set my idle high at around 1000 rpm for that exact reason.
Over the winter it stalled at junctions etc. when I have the lights on.
So up the idle. Should not cause a problem except at emissions testing
where I made sure it was daylight and set it back down. It is a virtual
UK spec as it has twin SU HS4 and as it is a '76 the same compression
ratio as yours. Electronics are all better than new on it as I have
replaced everything over time. In fact yours may still be points like I
had on my Dolomite and I have electronic ignition (upgraded twice in
it's life since original) and that does not help. Even has a newish
alternator.
I set the timing at the correct idle and then simply upped the idle speed.
Yes it does drop about 200 rpm with the lights on and I upped the power
of my lights just slightly with new headlamps when I fitted them after
it was painted and I was putting everything back on.
Problem is that any load dops the idle on our cars unlike the modern
ones with computers that keep it constant.
Alan
Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
>Dear All,
>
>I have been having trouble getting the idle setting right on Carly
>(stock UK-spec '77 1500). Having fixed the blowing exhaust manifold
>gasket, and refilled the car with four star leaded petrol, she should
>have been idling smoothly at about 850. She wasn't. She coughed and
>spluttered and died. So I tweaked the screws on the top of the SUs by
>about 30 degrees until I got a nice smooth idle at 850. No problem.
>Then I turned the headlights on. The engine revs immediately dropped
>by about 200 rpm, then she coughed, spluttered and died. This problem
>recurred about 90% of the times I tried it.
>
>This has to be an electrical problem, but I can't figure out where it
>is, or what I need to do to fix it. Can anyone help? Please?
>
>ATB
/// spitfires@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|