At 02:38 PM 2/11/03 +0000, Richard Gosling wrote:
>Have you got the brake drum off yet? If not, this can be tricky - it's held
>on by a pair of Phillips-head screws (although one or even both may have got
>lost over time...), and these can be DAMNED tight. Don't try too hard
>trying to remove them, or you will mess up the screw head and that is BAD.
>You are better off investing in an impact driver - a fantastic tool, and
>guaranteed to remove these screws no problem.
Replace those screws if they are the least bit damaged!!!!! And do not
over-tighten them.
Their only job is to keep the drums from falling off when you have the wheels
removed.
And put a little bit of anti-seize compound on the screws.
>You may also find you need to slacken off the brake adjuster (square-head
>screw sticking out the bottom inside of the brake) to get the drum off - and
>you certainly will need to slacken it off once new shoes are fitted, so
>might as well do it early and make life easier on yourself. It's worth
>buying the special spanner to adjust this - it's not expensive, and doing it
>with an adjustable spanner is a PITA.
Once the old shoes are off, you should completely remove the square-head screw
thingie
and the two pieces it presses against, clean them off in parts cleaner, and put
a bit of
anti-seize compound on the threads, etc. before reassembling.
During a rear brake rebuild, you also ought to remove the entire cylinder,
clean and lube
where it slides in the slot in the backing plate, and possibly replace the
spring clips
that hold it and the rubber dust shield where the parking brake lever comes out
from the backing plate. Also clean and lube that lever.
Finally, grease the rear wheel bearings while the brakes are apart, so you can
wipe away
any excess grease that comes out past the outer axle seal.
Doug Braun
'72 Spit
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