Marcus Schaper wrote:
>
> List,
>
> I have to admit that I have not read the digest in a while and I know that
> the answers to my questions may be in the archives that I do not know how to
> read ...
>
> I have a 73 European MKIV (1300, dual SUs) that is hard to start and has a
> bad drive shaft u-joint.
>
> 1. I want to convert to an electric fuel pump. Which brand and model of pump
> and external pressure regulator should I go for? I am running dual SUs
> (stock) on a 1300 but want to go to a 6 cylinder with triple 40 Webber side
> drafts eventually - and would love to keep the fuel pump I am about to buy.
> As I am located in Germany right now and will be in the U.S. for two weeks
> only, I need some standard off-the-shelf unit that is easy to get so I can
> take it home in my carry-on.
There are several that can be used. The key is to get one that is low
pressure. Many of the ones you now find in auto parts stores are high pressure
ones suitable for fuel injection systems that require 40 to 50 pounds of
continuous pressure. Your requirements are on the order of 2 to 4 psi. So a
unit that puts out less than 10 pounds coupled with a regulator that will limit
to around 2 to 4 psi will be required.
>
> 2. My rear left u-joint is going. I have heard of (and seen) BMW 323 rear
> end conversions with real CV-joints. Are there kits out there to convert to
> CV-joints or do need to fabricate these driveshafts and adapters myself?
Haven't seen any but Clive Averill is converting the rotoflex couplers on my
GT6 shafts to CV joints. They will still have the inner U-Joints,
though. Clive said he was working on a dual CV-joint conversion but it is
still in the R&D stage at this point.
Regards,
Joe
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