I think what you're actually asking about is the way the cut spring will ride
against the seat, not getting it to seat. For compression holds the spring
against the seat, and they are almost always located by some sort of central
cone or side collar.
If the spring rests against a flat seat, such as those used on threaded
adjustable struts and such, then a square cut spring could damage the seat, and
possibly cock it from an uneven application of force. If the spring was cut
with a grinder, then flattening it by cross cutting it would help spread the
load across the face of the seat. If it was torch cut, the edge will not be
sharp, so it is less likely to cut into the seat. Cocking of the seat is still
a possibility though. It can be resolved by cross cut grinding. Both can also
be resolved satisfactorily by the heat of a torch and collapsing the last half
of the coil or so.
If the spring rests against a stepped seat, then there is no danger of cocking
the seat, as the seat is designed for a non-flattened coil. Most production
automobiles use seats like this for coils. So either torch or grinder cutting
will work perfectly fine, being the way the oem spring was installed. Sharp
edges cutting into the seat are still a possibility, so one should ensure the
wire ends are not sharp.
Is this the question you are asking? and did I answer it?
>>> Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net> 02/13/02 11:23AM >>>
Explain to me if you can how you get a cut spring to sit onto its perch if you
don't taper the coil and then take a torch and flatten the end?
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