Don't be falsely "encouraged" because they weren't in a dozen pieces. They
wouldn't be. As John described, they simply fall out. They stay in place only
because they are a little bit thicker then the slot they would fall out of.
Once
they wear thin enough, they always fall out. That's why the rule of thumb about
replacing them about every 30-50k miles is important. It's a preventative
measure.
There are several possible reasons for having different sized thrust washers,
and
none of them are terribly good. A "make do" effort to compensate for badly
ground down bearing cap or block (which means the parts are mismatched btw),
lost
a new one and used an old one, different sizes on different sides of the bearing
cap. Like I said, none of these are good things.
The *only* way to check the damage is to remove the crank, and closely examine
the block and crank. This is not a job for the average do it yourselfer, it's a
machine shop job.
Yes, there are various methods of better affixing the thrust washers, from
pining
them to modifications allowing a saddle type. I'm personally a little hesitant
about pining them. The drilled hole inherently creates stresses on an already
severely stressed member. The claim that because the pin is brass it never
wears
the steel is baloney as well. The brass wears faster then the steel, but the
steel crank does wear.
You mention now that the engine is changing timing. As I recall, the earlier
stories were that it simply was not able to run when it was placed on correct
timing via the pulley marks. Has that story changed? For jumping timing is a
far different problem them merely incorrect timing.
All these things make me very skeptical of the quality rebuild this engine was
supposed to have had. I think the one who has been had is the person who
purchased this engine unfortunately. Be prepared to find the engine is actually
nothing more then junk.
MICHAEL C ROSS wrote:
> Well, I've pulled the oil pan and found some metal filings
> in the bottom, but not allot. The thrust washers had fallen
> out, but were whole. Curiously, one was nearly 1/2 thinner
> than the other. Both were scored and they were not mirror
> images, i.e.. one looked like the radius was larger, as
> though it had been pulled apart slightly.
>
> I'm thinking that maybe when the engine was rebuilt, the
> crank was polished and either the original old worn thrust
> washers were reused or new ones used that fit too loosely
> now that the tolerances had changed after polishing the
> crank (I'm just thinking out loud since I've never opened an
> engine up before tonight). I am encouraged that they
> weren't in a dozen pieces in the bottom of the oil pan.
>
> I was considering just installing new thrust washers, but
> decided to take it to the shop Tuesday to have them remove
> the crank and thoroughly inspect everything. I'll ask them
> to check the possibility of using thicker thrust washers and
> even putting an opposing pair on the bottom.
>
> As for the pulley: The woodruff key on the front pulley
> assembly was in place. Could the balancer part of the
> pulley assembly with the timing marks be rotating. Isn't it
> welded to the pulley? I couldn't get it to move with hand
> pressure. I thought I'd buy a strap wrench and really put
> some rotational force to it. I have no other explanation
> for why the timing marks kept changing.
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