Terry, I had the same on my GT6. For some reason my
#5 was not sparking. After some anger I found that my
dist. shaft was so worn that it wouldn't allow a close
enough contact for teh rotor and cap to contact.
Check how mucg side to side wear the distrib shaft
has. I bet this is the problem! Tell me what
happens.
Mark
--- Terry Thompson <firespiter@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Okay! I need some help here AGAIN.
>
> Let me start by saying this has been a long road of
> discovery as to why my car has been acting up the
> past
> few months. By acting up, I mean there has been a
> lack
> of power except way up in the RPM range and the
> following symptoms.
>
> Several problems so far have been:
> 1) Sputter at 3000 rpms (turns out it was a loose
> exhaust manifold or a leaky gasket: figured this one
> out when items around the leaky area started turning
> black).
> Resolution: replaced manifold gasket. Retorqued
> correctly. Sputter at 3000 is gone.
>
> 2) Spark plug in #2 position non-operational. I
> blamed
> this on a SPLITFIRE brand spark plug, because
> initially the engine RPMS didn't change when I
> pulled
> the plug. So I thought "AH! The wire or the plug is
> dead." Swapped the wire around with #1. No change.
> Then I had a second person holding the plug to the
> engine block and I was taking his word that it
> wasn't
> firing while I turned the key sitting in the
> cab/cockpit. so I replaced the plug and sped on my
> way.
> Resolution: The reason the car died is that the FUEL
> pump had slowly been giving up the ghost (an US made
> bellows style electric fuel pump that I've had on
> for
> about 2 years I think). It just stops for no
> apparent
> reason after a while of running. Turning the car off
> and turnning it back on again makes it start right
> up.
> I replaced the wiring, and made sure the ground to
> the
> chassis was good, installed a fuel pressure gauge to
> make sure I wasn't flooding the engine. I just got
> another one in the mail today. I'm sure that the #2
> plug disconnection not causing an idle change is
> also
> problematic, but wasn't the direct cause of the car
> dieing.
>
> 3) I had advanced the dizzy to try and get rid of
> the
> sputter at 3000 rpms (which it seems to have done).
> After retuning, I was getting a pretty steady idle,
> but I'd forgotten to turn the idle back to 10 deg
> BTDC.
>
> Diagnosis as of Today:
> -I fixed the advance back to 10 deg btdc.
> -I checked cleaned and adjusted the points gap.
> -I've swapped the plugs around
> -I installed new wires.
> -I inspected the dizzy cap for burns, streaks, dirt
> any other problems. (I don't have a spare to swap it
> with, but I just bought this one back in April or
> May).
> -I inspected the rotor arm. I don't have a spare at
> the moment to swap it out with again. But it looks
> fine.
>
> After each of the above steps I tried disconnecting
> the #2 plug wire and it STILL doesn't change the
> engine speed. (It does change the idle when I
> disconnect any of the other wires). The idle is
> okay,
> but when I drop down to the 700-800 rpm range it
> gets
> an occastional "puff" sort of sound. Not a pop like
> a
> back fire. Just like it's missing a cylinder.
>
> All of the other plugs (1,3 &4) were a nutty brown
> to
> a tan color. So I tried enriching the mixture (a
> half
> a rotation or 3 flats) and ran the car for about 15
> minutes. ALl of the other plugs turned black. #2 is
> still white as a sheet.
>
> I ran up stairs and got my compression tester. All
> cylinders are testing in the 120-130 psi. (2 and 3
> were on the low side of 120. 1 and 4 were on the
> high
> side).
>
> My question is...
> Could my valves need adjusting, e.g. a misadjusted
> rocker not fully pressing down on the #2 intake
> valve,
> and that's why I'm not getting any fuel to that
> plug?
> Or are there any other suggestions? Maybe a bent
> plug
> not closing on the compression stroke (but would I
> get
> good compression in that instance)?
>
> Also, I realize that there is documentation in my
> Workshop manual on how to adjust the valves
> (something
> I haven't done yet personally), but I realize that
> you
> need the cylinders at TDC to make this adjustment.
> Is
> there any way to tell if the cylinder is at TDC
> without using a borascope? Like the position of the
> Timing marker on the crank pulley?
>
>
=====
-Mark Holbrook-
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
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