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RE: More help please. But I'm getting closer (long)

To: "'Terry Thompson'" <firespiter@yahoo.com>, spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: More help please. But I'm getting closer (long)
From: "Mitchell, Doug (D.B.)" <dmitchel@ford.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:25:15 -0400
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Thompson [mailto:firespiter@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 1:06 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: More help please. But I'm getting closer (long)


Okay! I need some help here AGAIN. 

Let me start by saying this has been a long road of
discovery as to why my car has been acting up the past
few months. By acting up, I mean there has been a lack
of power except way up in the RPM range and the
following symptoms.

[snip of problems solved or apparently solved.]

My question is...
Could my valves need adjusting, e.g. a misadjusted
rocker not fully pressing down on the #2 intake valve,
and that's why I'm not getting any fuel to that plug?
Or are there any other suggestions? Maybe a bent plug
not closing on the compression stroke (but would I get
good compression in that instance)?

Also, I realize that there is documentation in my
Workshop manual on how to adjust the valves (something
I haven't done yet personally), but I realize that you
need the cylinders at TDC to make this adjustment. Is
there any way to tell if the cylinder is at TDC
without using a borascope? Like the position of the
Timing marker on the crank pulley?

Thanks!
-Terry


Terry,

If there is no apparent change when you pull the lead from
plug number 2, then number 2 probably isn't getting a spark.
I doubt that with the compression values that you give, you
have a problem with the valve lash.

You said that you have swapped the plug wire from 1 to 2, and
the problem stayed at 2, right? You put in a new plug at two
and the problem still remained? Then I would suggest that you
look at either the distributor cap or the rotor. There may very
well be a problem with one of these. The other possibility is
that the distributor is 'wobbling' and not making good contact
with the cap at 2. (bushings in the dizzy are worn and causing
the rotor not to be near the cap at 2. Not likely, but a
possibility).

As for adjusting the valves, you aren't looking for the piston
to be at TDC, but rather for the valves to be closed. Check the
manual, or wait for someone to reply with the rule of 9,13 or
whatever. I am having a bad day and can't remember what the
rule is. Joe, can you explain it to Terry?

Hope this helps and cheers,

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
mailto:dbmitch@peoplepc.com
'73 Spitfire 1500

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