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Re: DIY painting

To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: DIY painting
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 21:14:05 -0400
Most of the people have pretty much covered the basics so I won't delve into
that.  However, I'd like to make a couple of points:

1. When you purchase your paint, I'd suggest that you get at least 2 quarts
   of color.  Are you doing the inside and bottom of the body or just the top.
   If you are doing the chassis and the inside of the body tub then you may
   want to get a gallon.  The reason for getting a quanity is to insure color.
   When you get you paint, also ask for several extra empty gallon can - I 
   think they run about $2. ea.  Pour some of the paint (a quart at a time
   if you like) from the original 1 gallon can into one of the new ones.  Then
   mix in your thinner/reducer.  You will now end up with 1/2 gal or so of
   mixed paint.  Then use this to shoot with.  This way you will always have
   some "good" original color paint left.

2. Several said that with enamel, what you see is what you get.  That's not
   quite true.

   a.  Be careful with enamel, it doesn't go on "wet" looking like lacquer.
       If you get it looking wet it will *run*!!!  I haven't had any 
       trouble sanding out runs and touching up the area.  It just talks
       longer for enamel to dry.  A run will typically take about 1 hr or
       more to dry to where you can sand it out.

   b.  Enamel is very susceptable to "fish eye".  These are little rings
       where the paint won't stick.  This is due to oil on the surface to
       be painted.  Just before you are ready to shoot the color paint,
       you need to wipe the surface down with a "de-greaser".  Also you 
       should put some "fish eye" remover in the paint that is in the gun
       just before you shoot.  It only takes a few drops.

       If you get fish eyes, you will have to sand the area down, clean
       with degreaser and repaint.  If you go down to the metal you will
       need to re-prime the spot.


   c.  Enamel is also very prone to "orange peel".  This is because the 
       paint is drying before it has a chance to flow out.  If this starts
       to happen, you will either need to add more reducer or change the
       reducer you are using, to a slower drying one.

       This is where the what you see is what you get comes into play.  If
       you have a nice shinny job, you may want to leave well enough alone.
       But, if you have dull areas, either due to orange peel or over spray
       it can be fixed.  You will have to let it set for at least a week if 
       not a month.  Then you can "wet" or "color" sand it.  This is simply
       sanding with a rubber backing pad with 1200 to 2000 grit paper and
       lots of water!!!  This sand off the highs from the over spray or 
       orange peel and kill the shine.  Once the body is completely dull
       you will be able to buff it back out.

3. Some notes on buffing.  

   a.  You will need a good buffer.  I have not had any success with the
       vertical ones sold for polishing a car.  I use a horizontal buffer.
       Black and Decker made the one I have, but they discontinued it a
       couple of years ago.  I don't know if they make something to replace
       it.  The buffer should be about 2000-2400 rpm.  A low/high speed or
       a variable speed is fine, but you will usually use the high speed
       setting.

   b.  3M makes a great buffing system.  Instead of using the old wool
       bonnets, they have what looks like sponge rubber waffle pads.  This
       is about the best thing going - in my opinion.  Then you will need
       at least 2 if not 3 different compounds.

4. So far, I haven't seen anything about primers.

   a. You say that the parts have been stripped and primed.  I usually don't
      let the sandblasters prime my parts.  I will treat all bare metal with
      Ospho or DuPont's Metal conditioner.  This is phosphoric acid.  It will
      etch the metal for better adheasion by the primer, and kill any surface
      rust.

   b. In the past, I've always used lacquer primer (even for enamel paint 
      jobs).  However, primers are hydroscopic - absorbe water.  Consiquently
      if you don't get a top coat on it quickly, the metal will start to rust
      under the primer.

      There are a couple of new primers on the market:
         i. VeriPrime (DuPont I believe).  This is a good primer and contains
            the phsophoric acid.  But it WILL rust if not top coated quickly.

        ii. There are some new eurathaine primers out.  These are supposed 
            to be water proof.  So if you are painting a car in pieces or
            it will be a while before the parts are top coated, I would
            recommend that you look into using one of these primers.

That's a little more than my 2cents worth, but I hope it helps.  (Note: 
You might want to check out the technical section of my Morgan web page:
www.team.net/www/morgan/tech  Under the top section - General - there are
several articles on Fighting Rust, and painting.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire     71 Saab Sonett III
        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

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